A recent talk at the Orient-Institut in Istanbul, when Ara Dinkjian (son of the great Onnik) and Vahé Tachjian introduced early recordings of Armenian classics, led me to the impressive website
Houshamadyan: a project to reconstruct Ottoman Armenian town and village life.
With navigational aids, including useful context here, the site covers local Armenian communities and families on the eve of the 1915 genocide, largely through diasporic records— family histories and memoirs, images and recordings. The site is trilingual in English, Armenian, and Turkish—and the audience within Turkey seems to be significant, as explained in this review.
For a documentary introducing the musical world of Dinkjian father and son, click here.
For more of my dabblings in the cultures of west/Central Asia, click here. For another remarkable online archive, see Nicolas Magriel’s work on the sarangi. For diasporic communities in the USA, note Annie Proulx’s wonderful novel Accordion crimes. And for attempts to counteract state-induced amnesia in China and Tibet, see e.g. here.
In our modern world, the flight booking reference consists of a seemingly random combo of six letters and numbers, so on booking my recent flights for Istanbul I was impressed to find the last three letters
FND
which one might suppose to be a quaint honorific that is tailor-made for a trip to Turkey… Surely a one-off, but charming.
Dede Efendi (d.1846), Mevlevi music master. Source.
The SOAS rebetiko reader: a selection of papers associated with the Hydra rebetiko conferences 2000-2020 and seminars held at the School of Oriental & African Studies, London (2025) (online here), edited by Ed Emery, tireless aficionado and organiser of rebetiko events.
A substantial English addition to the mainly Greek literature on the topic, it’s the fruit of several conferences over the years (notably the annual gatherings on the island of Hydra), and the creation of various bands.
Rebetes in Karaiskaki, Piraeus, 1933. Source: wiki.
The volume contains contributions from well-established academics and informed amateurs, with original source materials in translation, plentiful song lyrics, discographical notes and links to YouTube clips. Besides Istanbul and Athens, topics include the (mostly bygone) rebetiko cultures of Smyrna/Izmir, Saloniki, Crete, and the USA, along with the Jewish connection; BulentAksoy unearths Turkish lyrics in early recordings. Two chapters by Gail Holst-Warhaft (on world music and the orientalising of rebetika, and the nationalising of the amanes) sample her thoughtful work since Road to rebetika. Also intriguing are excerpts from the autobiographies of Rosa Eskenazi and Markos Vamvakaris, and chapters on the criminal underworld, addressing heroin, cocaine, and morphine in rebetiko song; coverage of the connection with Sufi tekke lodges; zeybekika dances with zurna shawms feature in articles by PanagiotisAgiakatsikas and Muammer Ketencoglu, and a field report from west Anatolia by Ali FuatAydin.
Zurnas play for zeybek dancing, Aydın 2006. Source.
On Sunday SOAS hosted a grand celebration of the life of the great ethnomusicologist David Hughes (1945–2025), who died in May. Among many notices online, see this by Rachel Harris and Hwee-san Tan; Frank Kouwenhoven wrote eloquently in the CHIME newsletter.
After embarking on a PhD in ethnomusicology at Michigan under William Malm, from 1977 David thrived on fieldwork in Japan, together with his wife Gina Barnes. In 1981 they came to Cambridge (England!) to further their research, and it was there that I first met him as we consulted Laurence Picken. David went on to teach Japanese and Southeast Asian music at SOAS, becoming Head of Music and building a vibrant performance culture in a wide range of genres (he covered some of these topics, engagingly as ever, in this playlist). So the SOAS event resembled a retrospective of three decades of world music at SOAS and in Britain, with many of David’s former students performing; apart from copious Japanese music, among other featured groups that David supported and inspired were lively renditions of Cuban music and gamelan. And videos of his own performances were on display at the reception.
David was a co-founder of the British Forum for Ethnomusicology, and offered wise perspectives as a member of the CHIME board. Along with his in-depth research on Japanese folk-song, he had an authoritative grasp of Japanese musical cultures, as shown in his co-editing of The Ashgate research companion to Japanese music and his chapter on Japan for The other classical musics; he received several awards in Japan for outstanding contributions to Anglo-Japanese understanding. His lively and informal presence offered a welcome antidote to the more traditional British style of academic presentation—as a jovial performer, he was the life and soul of the party, delighting in language, an inspiration to many students. As is the nature of such things, the one person who would most have relished the event could not be present. David is much missed.
I’m most gratified that my film Seated at the altar, on the 1995 New Year’s rituals in Gaoluo village, was awarded two prizes at the Chinese Musics Ethnographic Film Festival (CMEFF) International Biennial of Audiovisual Ethnomusicology, held in July at the Shanghai Conservatory of Music. In addition to the Bronze Award, it received the Intangible Cultural Heritage Music Documentation Award—which, given my trenchant critiques of the ICH system, has a fine irony!
Zheng Zhentao, in his stimulating review of the film, highlights the contrast between my method (representing ethnographic standards in the West, I’d say) and the glamorised reification that is de rigueur within China in the portrayal of folk culture—an established tradition long before the ICH. So I’m gratified to find that there are those in China who appreciate my approach, as confirmed both by the discussion at the festival and the film’s reception at the screening in the village. The mere fact that I filmed New Year’s rituals and funerals in the village—rather than choosing staged settings such as the concert hall—seems to be original. However, such a verismo method looks unlikely to gain ground in China.
My films should always be viewed in conjunction with my writings—for Gaoluo, my detailed diachronic ethnography Plucking the winds. In the latter, far more broadly than mere “music”, the main themes of ritual, poverty, politics, and conflict are far more explicit. As I stressed here, “music” is merely a prism through which to document ritual and social change.
While I was doing fieldwork I was educating myself on rural Chinese society through modern regimes as revealed through Western scholarship (see e.g. here), such as Chen village, Gao village, and the studies of Friedman, Pickowicz, and Selden, as well as the work of Jing Jun, and (in Chinese) Guo Yuhua. These were my major inspirations.
It is easier to depict history on the page than in film. While the film hints at political aspects through photos and voiceovers, showing the village cadres’ support for the ritual association amidst the upheavals before and after the 1949 “Liberation”, this will only become clearer by reading my book (see e.g. this excerpt, and the history of the village Catholics). Yet these topics can hardly be broached under the current climate in China, where early history is idealised and modern history sanitised, in both text and film. Self-censorship is inevitable; even the word “politics” is largely taboo (cf. Ritual studies mildly censored).
So returning to the film, I’m still curious to know how Chinese audiences perceive the contrast between their romanticised image and ethnographic verismo. And I still wonder how Chinese film-makers manage to glamorise their rural themes.
An international conference in honour of Craig Clunas will be held on 16–17 September at Lincoln College, Oxford, bringing together leading scholars in the field of Ming studies and art history.
The Ming period (1368–1644) is central to our understanding of Chinese art, both as the time when many key texts and objects from preceding centuries were edited or curated into the forms in which they have come down to us today, and as the era to which much subsequent artistic practice and discourse has looked back for validation and inspiration. No one would dispute that Professor Craig Clunas pioneered the application of social history to the study of the Ming dynasty and Chinese art history. His innovative methodology has positioned the study of the Ming dynasty as one of the most dynamic and engaging areas in both art history and sinology. With more than a dozen monographs to his name, his international research and publication profile is unparalleled among art historians in the United Kingdom. In 2018, he retired from his position as the Statutory (Distinguished) Professor of Art History at the University of Oxford.
The presentations will address issues and ideas inspired by Professor Clunas’s research, encompassing a wide range of topics, periods, locations, and media—from the Wei-Jin dynasties to 21st-century Chinese art, from paintings and prints to teapots and furniture, from gardens and boats to maps and diplomacy, and spanning regions from Jiangnan China to Edo Japan and Europe.
By way of reminding you of my series on the great Gustav Mahler, some brief comments on the three symphonies of his performed at this year’s Proms, while I consult Norman Lebrecht’s handy guide Why Mahler?, marvelling at Mahler’s busy conducting schedule amidst the tribulations of his personal life.
Nothing can be so overwhelming as the 2nd symphony, which I heard on what was once called the radio. I find it hard to imagine how Mahler could have written anything after this. As to the 3rd, after the middle movements (akin to those of the 7th), the radiant finale dominates one’s image of the piece.
Hearing a live performance of the 5th is just as moving. The mellifluous Concertgebouw orchstra was conducted by Klaus Mäkelä (for the Concertgebouw’s Mahler 9 in 2022, click here)—it is televised on iPlayer.
I muse on the ravishing slow movements of this period in Mahler’s life: that of the 3rd as the culmination of the symphony, the Adagietto of the 5th all the more effective within the context of the whole; no less moving are those of the 4th and 6th (the latter, to my taste, still best placed third in the order of movements).
My Mahler series includes performances and recordings of his seminal works by some of the great interpreters. See also The art of conducting.
Ida Rubenstein leading the original 1928 production of Boléro. Source.
Ravel’s Boléro and Stravinsky’s The Rite of Spring have become concert “classics”, but they are challenging in very different ways. It was exhilarating to hear both in the same Prom the other day.
For The Rite, I refer you to various posts, starting with my own epiphany under Boulez in The shock of the new. By comparison, Boléro (also composed for a ballet) may merely seem like easy listening, but the concept is just as original, with our ears kept engaged by the rhythmic fluidity of both segments of the melody * over one long, relentless crescendo. I’m reminded of Roger Nichols’ characterisation, quoted in my page on Ravel:
the repetitive obsession that opens out on to notions of death, madness, destruction, and annihilation, as if the composer had had an apocalyptic vision of the end of the world.
Of course listeners will respond in different ways. Even if such a message is merely latent, Boléro can and should be a somewhat unsettling experience.
* Another party game: the two sections of the melody are deceptively simple, so one might suppose that after hearing so many repetitions, we would be able to reproduce it quite accurately from memory, even after a single hearing—and most of us have heard the piece many times. It becomes more achievable if we intentionally set out to memorise it (and for some it may help to consult notation), but even then it may still be a challenge—the first half of the opening section alone may prove surprisingly difficult to reproduce by heart. After Hašek, my usual prize of a small pocket aquarium…
Of course, it’s not to be compared with memorising a Brahms concerto, but its apparent simplicity, with virtually no harmonic props, make it all the more intriguing as an exercise. Cf. Conducting from memory, and On “learning the wrong music”.
Earworms can be most insistent. For some reason my current one is Tico tico no fubá, composed in 1917 by Zequinha de Abreu. I first got to know it via the Nimbus CD Choros from Brazil by Os Ingênuos, but recently I’ve been listening to a variety of performances.
There’s much to admire in the choro genre (e.g. this intro on YouTube)—which despite its title (“lament”), often displays great exuberance. With its zany syncops, most versions of Tico tico are mildly manic, but the first recording, by Orquestra Colbaz in 1931, is leisurely (cf. ragtime) and beguilingly genteel:
By the time the piece took off internationally it was becoming virtuosic and up-tempo—like this performance from Bathing beauty (1944) with Ethel Smith on Hammond organ:
The Portuguese lyrics came later, as sung by Carmen Miranda in Copacabana (1947)—with Groucho Marx a bemused onlooker:
This sounds seductively chirpy, but unless I’m missing something, you’d never guess at the niche ornithological content of the lyrics. The English-language version (also on wiki), totally reworked, is engagingly amorous—with the Andrews Sisters wisely opting for a more manageable tempo:
More recently Tico tico became a popular encore for symphony orchestras under Dudamel and Barenboim, but most exhilarating is this, from the Bahia youth orchestra:
The piece continues to inspire later generations—like this, with fine accordion and sax solos:
The same journal soon elaborated on the theme of ritual under Communism in a useful special issue (11.1, 2002) edited by Rachel Harris and Barley Norton, entitled “Red ritual“. Predating the Intangible Cultural Heritage razzmattazz, which further thickens the plot, it includes chapters on carnival in the Peruvian Andes (Jonathan Ritter), god processions in Cuba (Katherine Hagedorn), spirit mediums of northern Vietnam (Norton), Uyghur mazar festivals (Harris, with Rahilä Dawut—cf. this roundup), mortuary rituals in Fujian, China (Hwee-San Tan), and the Jewish service in Communist Hungary (Judit Frigyesi).
In their cogent Introduction the editors outline approaches to ritual, the contexts and functions of “ritual music” (focusing on performance), as well as revivals and recycling. Since they mention Kundera’s polemic against the state “bastardisation” of folk culture, we might now add the movie Cold war (see Resisting fakelore). See also Shamans in the two Koreas, Madonna pilfrimage in Communist Poland; and note Maoism tag. With local ritual practices often perceived as a counter-hegemonic threat to the state and a vehicle for political resistance, such studies confirm “the failure of Communism’s modernising mission. Ritual music continues to play a central role in religious expression and has the capacity to enact social memory, to forge ethnic identities, and to both propagate and challenge political and nationalist ideologies”.
The maintenance of ritual practice under authoritarian regimes is a theme that continues to engage me. Still, I find myself ever more wary of the rubric “ritual music”. While soundscape is always a crucial element animating ritual, and some of the most apposite fieldwork on performance comes from ethnomusicology, I still wish that scholars of religion and society could naturally consider soundscape without it having to be pigeonholed under “musicology” (cf. Bigenho). If the study of ritual subsumed soundscape and society, then it would be unnecessary to create a separate niche for “ritual music”.
Instrumental lives: musical instruments, material culture, and social networks in East and Southeast Asia (2024),
edited by Helen Rees, professor of ethnomusicology at UCLA, who, besides her long-term work on ritual groups in southwest China, also edited the useful book Lives in Chinese music.
The chapters offer original perspectives, going far beyond dry organology, revealing “how musical instruments interact with their environments and societies”, and treating them as living organisms, with their own life cycles. Preceding Rees’s fine Introduction is an outstanding Foreword by Xiao Mei. Besides the book’s abundant further references, the publisher’s website has useful supplemental material, including audio, video, and photos.
The book is organised into three sections. The first explores the characteristics and social roles of various categories of instruments. Terauchi Nauko describes the aesthetics of silk versus synthetic strings for the Japanese koto zither (a debate highly relevant to modern Chinese history, but which I suspect is unlikely to resonate widely today outside academia). And Tyler Yamin contributes an admirable chapter on an extinct Balinese wooden clapper, “The cålåpitå past and the “dull edge” of extinction: a shaggy dog story of repatriation and refusal in Bali”. Splendidly, he ends by citing a venerable senior musician, to whom he presented a painstakingly-restored clapper, long obsolete in practice:
No thankyou. I don’t like it. Just take it back with you.
Section two includes yet another brilliant article on the elite qin zither by Bell Yung, tracing the life story of his own qin(“b.1640”, a fine characterisation) and its illustrious owners. And Jennifer Post introduces her fieldwork on end-blown flutes in rural western Mongolia.
By comparison to practice in local communities, instrument collections of museums and university music departments, removed from their natural habitat, may seem like a minor theme. But as Rees observes, the three essays of the final section “treat instrument collections not as mausoleums or specimen drawers for pinned butterflies but as dynamic entities that redirect their charges into new habitats and new social roles”. After essays on an exibition in Laos and the Thai instruments at UCLA, the volume ends with a splendid account by Rees herself of the role of Asian instruments in the founding of the UCLA collection.
For my own topic of folk ritual groups in north China one can see and feel the performers’ deep attachment to their wind instruments—like the beauty of older sheng mouth-organs, worn around the finger-holes, although they have a limited lifespan (see e.g. here and here). Some players have requested that their guanzi oboes should be buried with them.
While environmental concerns often feature, coverage of China, at least, might be further informed by the role of politics—not only campaigns but the general decline through the decades of Maoism, besides the determined resolve of communities to maintain their local traditions amidst the destruction and neglect of temples, ritual paintings, and other material artefacts. However, under the current regime even scholars outside the PRC are likely to show tact in discussing such topics.
So, the drama of Wimbledon again (“Phew what a scorcher”)!
This year the tournament, like most of the other majors, has replaced line judges with electronic line-calling. As I wonder on what planet some demented sartorial arbiter might consider the former judges “best-dressed“, the courts are now depleted of what to one friend seemed like gatecrashers.
While this largely deprives the players of the frisson of dissent, and the melodrama of audience oohs and aahs as the Hawkeye screen zoomed in to assess a challenge, the new system does seem to be widely accepted. Still, as one comment reflected on the Guardian live feed:
Something felt off, and I couldn’t put my finger on it until you just reminded me about the absence of the line judges. Not only does the court look empty, but I’m surprised to find I also miss their shouts and shrieks, like a supply teacher trying to assert authority. This feels like a minor tournament without them, and it’ll take some getting used to.
See also this article. Since I wrote this, a succession of comments has appeared lamenting the change.
You can find plenty of intriguing posts on tennis under my Sporting medley.
Having not exactly been hibernating, I now find myself in what doesn’t merit the term of “sabbatical”. It’s partly that I’m beset by a lack of focus; while it’s good that I currently feel no need to inflict my ideas on others, it’d be nice if I had something to say. Still, this may come as a relief to some readers.
As to China, I remain intrigued by Zhang Zhentao’s review of my Gaoluo film. So far I haven’t found sources unpacking foreigners’ supposed proclivity for representing the “ugly” side of China, which is well worth refuting, seeming to imply that honest depiction of rural life is to be censored—but I welcome leads.
On my visits to Istanbul, while trips along the Bosphorus on the vapur ferry continue to delight, I’m ever more diffident about my random delvings into Turkish culture. One remarkable recent addition to the pleasures of the Kuzguncukmahalle is a little basement cafe where young Sufi singers and instrumentalists get together to practise the makam.
It is far from a literal translation of my English script—I was keen to adapt it to reflect the idiom and way of thinking of the Gaoluo villagers. So rather than the terminology of urban academia, we incorporated local vocabulary like lao guiju 老规矩 (“the old rules”: tradition), dangjia 当家 (“boss”), jiahuo 家伙 (percussion), wentan 文坛 (“civil altar”: vocal liturgy), and songjing 送经 (“escorting the scriptures”). In many ways I find it preferable to the English text—since the original English voiceovers are intact, it’s worth watching even for those not dependent on the translation.
The Chinese version is now available both (in China) on the CDTM website (follow this link) and on my YouTube channel (alongside the English version):
And do browse the posts under Gaoluo in the top Menu! Click here for thoughts arising from presenting the film at SOAS; here for an intriguing Chinese review; and here for a screening in Leiden along with my film on the Li family Daoists.
“Guying yu duju—Zhong Sidi jilupian ‘Zuotan: 1995 nian Nan Gaoluo cun yinyuehui zhengyue yishi’ yingping”, 孤映与独举——钟思第纪录片《坐坛:1995年南高洛村音乐会正月仪式》影评,Zhongguo yinyuexue 中国音乐学 2025.2.
No sooner had I surmised that Chinese audiences might not articulate the stark differences between my (inadvertently) ethnographic perspective and the sanitised, beautified portrayals from the Intangible Cultural Heritage (e.g. here; cf. Gaoluo film: a village screening), Zhang does precisely that.
The social context of Chinese folk musical cultures hardly appears on film. While I had blamed this on the ICH system since 2004, Zhang shows how deeply embedded is China’s history of romanticising and glamorising rural life. Despite Chinese scholars’ exposure to Western ethnography since the 1980s, his comments suggest that social realism has had little impact, and that the habit of self-censorship remains ingrained. I suppose the Party line is that while one may wish to film for one’s own research purposes, such scenes are not fit for public consumption: that we should draw a veil over poverty—over real life. In international visual anthropology the theoretical nuances of the film-maker’s “gaze” are much discussed, but this seems a particularly disturbing impasse.
Even Zhang Zhentao, who evokes village life in detail on the page, seems somewhat perplexed that we might want to display images of it. He finds the style of Seated at the altar consistent with that of my film on the Li family Daoists, and he might also have mentioned the DVDs with my two books on Ritual and music of north China. Playing devil’s advocate, he reiterates the simplistic notion that foreigners choose to depict China in ugly and shameful images, making the Chinese people “lose face”. He queries an apparent lack of “aesthetic” values (shenmei, where mei means “beauty”), adducing scenes from my films showing squalid streets and dwellings, shabby clothes, old women with bound feet, and the decaying architectural remnants of political campaigns. As he explains, such scenes are justified by the ethnographer’s search for “authenticity” and “realism”. *
To dispel China’s victim complex, it should suffice to watch documentaries filmed in India, Africa or Indonesia—and indeed on our own doorstep, such as De Martino’s films on taranta. But Zhang’s comments suggest that documentaries about other parts of the world have little influence in China.
As to fictionalised films, Zhang mentions the classic 1979 Abing biopic Erquan yingyue, as well as the movies of Zhang Yimou (and rather than the beautified images of Raise the red lantern, I much prefer the gritty realism of The story ofQiuju, or Jia Zhangke‘s depictions of small-town life). In between stand movies like Yellow earth or The old well (see here). While “underground” documentaries like those of Wang Bing, Ai Xiaoming, Hu Jie, and Jiang Nengjie, or the subaltern films of Xu Tong, boldly challenge the Party line, investigative Chinese TV documentaries show (or showed?) scenes of real village life, and brief unedited footage on Chinese websites and YouTube makes a useful resource. I wonder how Chinese audiences assess Sidney Gamble’s footage from 1920s’ Miaofengshan. Some non-Chinese scholars have issued documentaries on expressive and ritual culture in rural China, such as Chinese shadows, Bored in heaven, and the films of Jacques Pimpaneau (see this roundup). We might also adduce Ashiq: the last troubadour.
Politics: text and image It’s impressive that Zhang Zhentao broaches the issue of gaze, but he can hardly spell out another respect in which my perspective differs. My films complement my written texts—which though full of detail on the successive social and political upheavals of the 20th century (notably the Maoist era), attract little attention in China because few of them are accessible in Chinese (though see here and here). Politics is the elephant in the room, remaining taboo for music scholars within China; and among Chinese anthropologists too, few go so far as Guo Yuhua in documenting the ordeals of villagers under Maoism (see also here).
Text allows for more detail; film makes a more vivid impact. Whereas the film could only hint at the impact of political campaigns on ritual life in Gaoluo, in my book Plucking the winds I discussed this in some depth—such as the devastating national famine of 1959–61, of which very few images are available, by contrast with propaganda films on the supposed achievements of the Great Leap Forward.
Filming ritual and expressive culture In China, besides the official taboos on showing poverty and discussing politics, the study of religious ritual is largely confined to textual studies of pre-modern history.
Before the ICH (even during the Anthology era of the 1980s–90s), Chinese fieldworkers rarely had the wherewithal to film ritual activity; and even if they did so, such footage could hardly be published. I too filmed merely for my own research purposes, to enable me to document ritual activity in far greater detail than I could achieve through making notes, taking photos, and recording audio; my footage included all too few scenes of daily life, which significantly enhance a film.
Yangjiagou band, 1999
Shaanbei: scenes from Notes from the yellow earth.
My own films include scenes of lowly shawm bands at village funerals, a blind bard performing for a family blessing, beggars singing at a wedding, and a drunken folk-singing session in a poor peasant home. There is nothing sensationalist or demeaning about all this. If we seek to document rural Chinese communities and their expressive culture, how can we then ignore the conditions in which it takes place? Even if I could think how to sanitise, beautify, and idealise such scenes, it would never occur to me to do so. The social and historical setting matters, but is airbrushed in China. While I see the differences between my approach and that of the ICH, I have no intention of being controversial: I merely seek to document traditional ritual culture as best I can.
Gaoluo: ritual, “music”, and daily life In filming the New Year’s rituals in Gaoluo, my choices were limited, largely consisting not of any grand conceptual vision but of finding physical positions from which to frame the scene.
Knowing these villages so well, Zhang Zhentao seems both impressed and disturbed by my vignettes of daily life there—elderly people relaxing in the sunshine, Cai An at his general store, the family eating dumplings. Wearing their everyday clothes, villagers perform in simple peasant houses decorated only by pinups, or before the god paintings in their humble ritual buildings, with cigarette cartons and thermos flasks placed besides instruments on rickety wooden trestles—by contrast with the ICH format of presenting folk groups in fake-antique costumes performing on the concert stage or in tidy, arid government courtyards. Villagers smoke, they joke; they ride motor-bikes and use mobile phones. Social context is important; to censor the conditions of village life would be mendacious. It should go without saying that my films are made with the utmost respect for my village hosts, serving as a tribute to their resilience. **
“Music” Zhang Zhentao stresses the contributions that musicologists can make to ethnographic filming, but for me the challenge is the other way round. In reviewing Seated at the altar he focuses on the recitation of “precious scrolls” and the moving performance of the percussion suite—but I see these as inevitable components of documenting the entire ritual process. What I find significant is including scenes that may appeal more to ethnographers than to musicologists, such as (in Li Manshan) choosing the date and siting of the burial, the encoffinment, and informal scenes of the Daoists relaxing between rituals; or (in Seated at the altar) worshippers kowtowing and offering incense, or preparing the soul tablet for the deceased.
Zhang highlights the vocal liturgists’ renditions of the Houtu precious scroll before the gods in the lantern tent. Here he does well to observe that they had only been striving to recreate it in performance since 1993, at our behest; their efforts were less than ideal, and the future of the vocal liturgy still remains precarious. The recitation of the precious scrolls is most distinctive, but to me, just as crucial are the scenes that show their singing of the hymns that punctuate funerals and the New Year rituals, including The Incantation of Pu’an.
Similarly, while Zhang pays tribute to the visceral affective power of the percussion suite, I would also draw attention to the shorter percussion pieces that punctuate rituals. Still, the suite intoxicated me so much that over the years I missed no opportunity to film it during rituals, which taught me to find a suitable position and to zoom and pan at meaningful places. In China it would be unlikely to show the percussion suite within its actual function of ritual performance, but surely even Chinese audiences will find the result beautiful. True, in the Appendix that follows the final credits, our experiment with Cai An and Cai Yurun demonstrating the sections was one that might occur only to musicologists. ***
As to those final credits, Zhang notes the poignancy of the long list of performers, with their dates—many of them having died since the footage was filmed.
* * *
In sum, I simply fail to see how to evoke village ritual life, in either text or images, without providing social and historical context. Yet basic anthropological principles, that to us are self-evident, appear to struggle to gain acceptance in China—all the more under the current ICH regime. Because I’m so impressed by the work of my Chinese colleagues, I sometimes fail to register the constraints under which they operate.
Meanwhile at the Shanghai Centre for Ritual Music, Xiao Mei offers an impressive training in international approaches to ethnographic film-making, making me keen to see how they bridge the gulf—see my further reflections after my film won awards at the 4th Chinese Music Ethnographic Film Festival in Shanghai this July.
* And what if villagers actively prefer to be displayed in glamorous costumes on the concert stage?! So far I have no evidence that they are so allergic to displaying the conditions of their lives as are apparatchiks.
** Partly because I was reminded of the sad decline of revolutionary hero and vocal liturgist Cai Fuxiang, in the film’s funeral scene I included one tiny shot of the village’s only beggar at the time. I regret not chatting with him, because he would have added to our picture of village life, and our visit might have enhanced his self-esteem.
Cf. my sketch of the affable disabled ritual helper Yanjun in Yanggao, whose story I only gleaned at second hand (see under Yanggao: personalities).
In the film I allude to the Catholic minority in Gaoluo since the late 19th century, the 1900 massacre, and their re-evangelisation by Italian priests from the 1920s. Their continuing activity is a sensitive subject, but the scene of their brass band parading at New Year 1995 was so striking that it seemed acceptable to include it.
*** Cf. the complete shawm suite (with useful musical signposts in the voiceovers) at a 1992 funeral that forms the Appendix of my 2007 DVD Doing things.
Presenting my film on Gaoluo at SOAS the other day, and the following discussion, thoughtfully led by Rachel Harris and Feng Jun, prompted me to try and rework some of my thoughts.
My book on Gaoluo was published in 2004, the result of frequent fieldtrips ever since 1989, and it’s full of detail on the lives of villagers through all the social and political upheavals of the 20th century. But I then moved onto other projects, and I only returned to the topic recently, to compile this film from my footage of the 1995 New Year’s rituals, which makes a nice succinct subject—and already a historical one, as I say in the film.
I see ethnography and film as essential complements to library work on imperial history (see here). This kind of subject, though vital to folk society, can’t be addressed only by reading old books in libraries. Actually, the topic hardly appears at all in old books—it’s only revealed by fieldwork. Until the 1950s almost every village in the region had an organisation like this; and many of them still do. While I eventually focused on this one village, we also did a survey of over a hundred village associations nearby (see e.g. under “Hebei” in the main menu, including this survey).
Religion The whole topic of the Hebei ritual associations was only “discovered” by Chinese musicologists in 1986, and it has become a major theme within that discipline—but alas, not in religious studies. I think there are two main reasons for this.
First, terminology. These groups are now commonly known by the umbrella term yinyuehui, which seems to translate simply as “Music Associations”. But it’s confusing: in these villages the term yinyue refers very specifically to the melodic instrumental ensemble that accompanies the rituals of Buddhist and Daoist temples. That indeed was our initial interest, but it’s only one aspect of the associations’ ritual activities, their “instrumental department”, if you like. The term does have an authentic historical pedigree, but tous (both in the West and for urban-educated Chinese) it suggests an unfortunately secular image, like some kind of folk club for entertainment, which encourages Chinese attempts (both in the media and in academia) to downplay the pervasive role of religion (or “superstition”!) in folk society. So I obstinately insist on calling them ritual associations. Despite the gradual decline of vocal liturgy in the region, associations preserve many ritual manuals. And while the melodic instrumental repertoire now dominates, many groups regard these pieces as “scriptures”.
Apart from terminology, folk religion is a sensitive subject. There are some fine scholars in China, but they mainly write about earlier history and written texts, and are cautious about documenting events since 1949, or current activity; whereas we who study expressive culture incline more towards fieldwork. At least, scholars of religion could choose a few villages to clarify the transmission (whether “Buddhist” or “Daoist”) from early temple priests, and study early artefacts such as ritual manuals (not least the “precious scrolls”) and god paintings. While it may now be hard to establish a different image to that of the ICH (see below), the system has legitimised such associations, and they are not subject to the taint of “superstition”—even if scholars of religion may choose to exercise a certain discretion about the early sectarian connections that we documented.
These associations on the Hebei plain are devotional, priding themselves on providing ritual services for their home village without payment. Their ritual sequences are not very dense, but their purpose is to appease the gods. I again put them in the context of other manifestations of religious behaviour in China (such as sects, occupational groups of household Daoists, and spirit mediums). Like my film on the Li family Daoists (which I also encourage you to watch!), this film is set in the north; the soundscapes of the two films are similar, but their social contexts are rather different.
After the end of the main film, the Appendix gives some clues to the workings of the majestic percussion suite, ending with the most moving complete rendition. This is the most convincing illustration of the inadequacy of text, audio recordings, and photos, and it shows the villagers’ deep commitment to the tradition.
All this is a good illustration of how ethnomusicology is based on society and soundscape. Ritual in performance is always animated by sound, so soundscape should always be a major element in our study of ritual. Indeed, most local traditions of “Chinese music” depend on ritual—folk-song, opera, narrative-singing, and dance. One might compare the ritual groups in southwest China studied by Helen Rees, or “song festivals” in the northwest. In Uyghur culture, the pervasive role of Islam is masked by Party propaganda on muqam. The world music industry also remoulds “Sufi music” misleadingly to highlight instrumental music.
Conflict, and the 1949 barrier Politics and social change are major themes of my book and this website. It’s always important to break through the 1949 barrier. We must take modern history seriously. The story always continues, from imperial and Republican times to the Maoist and reform eras, adapting to the changing times. People’s life stories and personalities make a revealing human window onto history and social change. Stories like those that I document—amidst campaigns, conflicts, famine, massacres, thefts—are airbrushed under the current Chinese regime.
Unlike small occupational household groups such as Daoists and shawm bands, these associations are public bodies, which the villages cadres have always played a major role in supporting.
I’m always struck by this amazing image of a former monk training disciples in a nearby village in 1959 (see here, under North Xinzhuang), just as the devastating great famine was occurring—the famine is among crucial topics that can hardly be addressed in China.
Shadows in the field I could only offer superficial responses to Feng Jun’s salient query about how I positioned myself in relation to the people and events I was documenting. It’s a major theme of the book (and of a thesis in Chinese). I was most fortunate to have two excellent fieldwork companions from Beijing, who were totally on board with studying social and religious change. It’s most important to stay in the village, and to take part in their ritual life (neither of which is common for Chinese scholars). The villagers were open in replying to my questions, which Chinese scholars hardly asked.
I never thought of making films for the public domain; I filmed strictly for my own research purposes, and only realised later that some footage could be edited into watchable films. Our visits energised the Gaoluo association, while others were declining, but transmission was a constant anxiety of theirs, and a theme of our discussions. We can now see this as a precursor of the Intangible Cultural Heritage system.
The ICH Since my last visit in 2003, a lot has happened in these villages. They’re no longer so poor. Crucial issues, everywhere, are migration, social media, state education, and the whole emptying of the countryside. And there’s no escaping the ICH system, which has influenced many such village groups. Many authors have described how the system commodifies, secularises, and reifies local traditions (see e.g. here). It’s state propaganda; most “research” under its auspices is superficial. While my film, and the book, inadvertently make a contrast with the celebratory approach enshrined by the ICH, I’m perturbed that Chinese viewers don’t seem to articulate this; they can’t read my book in Chinese, and anyway I’m not sure they would care to dwell on my different approach. With recent Chinese fieldwork dominated by the ICH, it is hard to gain a more in-depth picture.
Although the system uses “music” and “culture” as a smokescreen to downplay religious life, it works both ways; for the communities themselves, it helps protect them, legitimise them. With the tenuous survival of these groups under question ever since the 1980s’ reforms, joining the ICH made a tempting expedient for the association leaders. And faith endures, with villagers using the system to their own ends; the Gaoluo association still does funerals, and villagers still offer incense.
The village’s Catholic minority (whose brass band took part in a “demonstration” on 1st moon 15th in 1995, shown in the film) makes an intriguing sub-plot in the story. In this whole area the relationship between “Patriotic” and underground churches has long been opaque, and without a prolonged stay it would be hard to further our understanding of the shifting scene.
As with my work on the Li family Daoists, the combination of book, film, and website is most instructive.
Marked decline in semicolons in English books, study suggests
To complement the Oxford comma, more fodder for punctuation nerds in Amelia Hill’s entertaining recent Guardian article—complete with quiz.
The first use of the semicolon has been attributed to the Italian scholar and printer Aldus Pius Manutius the Elder in 1494. Abraham Lincoln observed, “I have a great respect for the semicolon; it’s a very useful little chap” (hmm). Virginia Woolf used it over 1,000 times in Mrs Dalloway. Cormac McCarthy included 42 semicolons in his first book, The orchard keeper—but then just one across his next nine novels (and what might we deduce from that, I wonder?!).
Kurt Vonnegut disapproved of it, averaging fewer than 30 a novel, about one every 10 pages. Salman Rushdie, John Updike, and Donna Tartt each used an average of 300 semicolons for 100,000 words. As if other negative reviews of the Fifty shades trilogy weren’t enough, “E.L. James was criticised for repeatedly using commas inaccurately instead of semicolons”.
Perhaps someone can square these two comments for me:
“Semicolon use in English rose by 388% between 1800 and 2006, before falling by 45% over the next 11 years. In 2017, however, it started a gradual recovery, with a 27% rise by 2022.”
“The semicolon seems to be in terminal decline, with its usage in English books plummeting by almost half in two decades—from one appearing in every 205 words in 2000 to one use in every 390 words today.”
For more, see e.g. here. Now I think we should go the whole hog and sing the praises of the colon too.
Much of the pleasure in reading an article like this lies in marvelling at the projects with which academics manage to fill their time. But there’s no limit to the topics for which statistics can be enlisted—I think of Grootaers’ fieldwork survey documenting the declining numbers of temples in north China villages through the Republican era, and the deities to whom they were devoted.
The language of the novel was effectively dramatised by Monty Python:
I’ve sung the praises of the music of Gustav Mahler in a series of posts, rounded up here. For anyone within reach of Amsterdam, the Concertgebouw’s current Mahler festival is a blessing: details here and here, with useful links. The comprehensive concert series includes all the symphonies in sequence, performed by some outstanding world orchestras and conductors, with many related events, including the songs with piano.
Towards a dynamic approach to material artefacts in diachronic social context
Further to my previous post giving background on material support for amateur ritual associations on the Hebei plain, I now focus on Gaoluo village, whose four ritual associations all preserve a wealth of ritual artefacts. Here our prolonged fieldwork allows us to “break through the 1949 barrier” by incorporating the easily-neglected Maoist era into the wider picture both before the Communist victory and since the 1980s’ liberalisations.
To remind you, both South and North villages have their own ritual association, now commonly known as Music Association (yinyuehui, yinyue referring to the “classical” style of paraliturgical melodic instrumental ensemble); and both villages have their own Guanyin Hall Association (or Eastern Lantern Association, dongdenghui), now known as Southern Music Association (nanyuehui, having adopted the more popular style of “Southern music”). But whereas the misleading term “music association” has since become standard in the region, note that neither the 1930 nor the 1990 lists of South Gaoluo use the term: both texts (like their 1983 gongche score) refer to “Southern Lantern Association” (nandenghui), the 1990 list glossing it as“sacred society” (shenshe). So to stress yet again, this whole topic belongs firmly within the study of folk religion and society, far beyond “musicology”. Do watch my film on the 1995 New Year’s rituals in Gaoluo!
These two donors’ lists from 1930 and 1990 make striking exhibits, but the village’s other associations also suggest clues; having written about them separately, here I rework them into a diachronic account.
A common stimulus for creating new donors’ lists is the expenditure of replacing ritual artefacts (ritual manuals, god paintings, instruments, and so on); besides recording the contributions of named villagers, many lists provide detailed public accounts.
The 1930s For our main ritual association in South village, one such list, which we saw adorning the lantern tent for the 1995 New Year’s rituals, was said to date from the late 19th century, but alas it was so faded as to be totally illegible. Instead, most handsome of the ritual artefacts on display was the 1930 donors’ list—apparently the only surviving list from before Liberation that we have found in the region:
Now if we saw this list on the wall of a museum, it would have limited potential. But since the tradition endures, not only can we witness rituals, hearing the wind and percussion music and vocal liturgy before the gods; but further, the descendants of the people featured in the list were able to provide considerable detail, putting the initiative in the context of the Republican era in the region. To summarise my discussion in Plucking the winds and in Ritual images: Gaoluo, during 1930 both associations in South village undertook a refurbishment of their ritual apparatus—apparently prompted both by the brief restoration of peace in the area after many years of fierce fighting between warlords, and by competition with the renewed energy of the village Catholics.
The 1930 list, entitled Wanshan tonggui (“The myriad charities return to the same source”), commemorates the commissioning of a major series of diaogua hangings from Painter Sun of Doujiazhuang village in Zhuozhou county just north. It records 92 heads of households, surely consisting of most of those then living in the southern half of South village which the association served, though some were doubtless too poverty-stricken to be able to afford even a minimal contribution. For all the beauty of the list, many (including all the womenfolk) were unable to read it.
The donations, ranging from 6 yuan to 5 jiao, totalled 109.83 yuan; the cloth cost 24 yuan, the paintings 61.5 yuan, and other expenses amounted to 33.83 yuan, leaving debts of 9.5 yuan. Five “managers” of the association are named at the head of the list: Cai Lin, Cai Ze, Shan Xue, Shan Chang, and Shan Futian (sketches in Plucking the winds, p.54). As their descendants recalled in the 1990s, all were prominent figures in the village, some of whom were also active as ritual performers.
Later in 1930, in preparation for the following New Year’s rituals, the South village Guanyin Hall Association also made a donors’ list for the commissioning of twelve new ritual paintings, listing four “managers”, two “organisers”, and three “incense heads”. The paintings were again made by Master Sun; the 1990s’ members also say he made new diaogua hangings for their association. In the years before the 1937 Japanese invasion, one Wang Laoguo from South Gaoluo painted more diaogua for them.
Further suggesting the ritual revival of the time, the early Dizang precious scroll of the Guanyin Hall Association in North Gaoluo contains a section recopied in 1932 (the precious scrolls are introduced here, and for Hebei, here and here).
Under Maoism In the decades after the 1949 Communist revolution, many village ritual associations gradually became less active or ceased entirely. However, a close look belies the common notion that ritual life was in abeyance right until the 1980s’ reforms. For this crucial and ever more elusive period, material artefacts serve only as an adjunct to the memories of villagers.
With the new regime in its infancy, peace gave rise to hope for local communities long traumatised by warfare. Even as the collective system escalated, Gaoluo’s new village administration managed to embrace its traditional associations. The production teams used to give a little grain or other goods to support whichever association lay within their patch. The political climate didn’t dampen faith in village ritual associations: they continued to perform funerals and observe the New Year’s rituals in their respective lantern tents. Between 1950 and 1964 several groups of young men were recruited to learn both the vocal liturgy and the instrumental music; new gongche scores of the latter were compiled.
However, I doubt if the associations often dared hang out their ritual artefacts, and the atmosphere must have discouraged the making of donors’ lists. Our association didn’t make one between 1930 and 1990, but in 1952 the South village Guanyin Hall Association converted from their chaozi shawm-and-percussion music to the more popular style of “Southern music”. They invited the locally-renowned musician Hu Jinzhong from nearby West Yi’an village to teach them, giving him food and accommodation through the winter, but no fee, as ever. There was some official opposition to them learning the music, so the association sought no public donations; it still owned some land in the early 1950s, so it could buy instruments independently. Supporters merely “took care of a banquet” for the association, and no donors’ list was made.
The early 1960s From 1961 to 1964, in the brief lull between the famine and the Four Cleanups campaign, ritual associations revived strongly throughout the Hebei plain, training youngsters in both the instrumental ensemble and the vocal liturgy. The latter tradition was in general decline on the plain, with the elders of the “civil altar” dying off. In Gaoluo, the vocal liturgy of South and North village Guanyin Hall Associations effectively came to an end with the deaths of Zhang Yi in 1950 and Shan Yongcun around 1956. Only our South village ritual association had a group of keen teenagers who came forward in 1961 to study the vocal liturgy with senior masters. But elsewhere the shengguan instrumental ensemble increasingly came to represent the scriptures before the gods.
One might imagine the early 1960s’ revival prompting our association to compile a new donors’ list, but perhaps the leaders were wary of creating such a public pronouncement. However, in 1962 the South village Guanyin Hall Association used its 1930 list to add a new list of donors.
And in 1964 the Gaoluo village opera troupe, not inhibited by the taint of “superstition”, commemorated its revival in a donors’ list (composed by Shan Fuyi), with the 280 donors representing the great majority of households in North and South villages at the time. The list records the donation of c450 yuan in total.
For both the ritual associations and the opera troupe, the early 1960s were a cultural heyday such as they had not been able to enjoy since the early 1950s, reflecting the social recuperation after the famine afforded by a central withdrawal from extreme leftist policies. Little did they know that political extremism was once again to disrupt their lives still more severely; the optimism of their declarations was soon to look naive and hollow.
Since the 1980s’ reforms In the Hebei villages, as throughout the whole of China, the last two decades of the 20th century were particular in that their associations were reviving after at least fifteen years of stagnation—and even those that had been active until the eve of the Cultural Revolution had practised somewhat furtively. Thus they needed to replace a considerable amount of their ritual equipment.
In Gaoluo after the liberalisations following the collapse of the commune system in the late 1970s, the village “brigade” (dadui) gave 100 yuan a year to all the village’s main associations, which our South village ritual association spent on getting its sheng mouth-organs tuned. In the early 1980s they commissioned a new ritual pantheon of Dizang and the underworld, and compiled a new gongche score, but they didn’t yet create a new donors’ list.
However, the North village Guanyin Hall Association had a donors’ list made as early as 1981, to commemorate their own revival, written in elegant classical Chinese (text copied in Zhang, Yinyuehui, pp.128–9). This association had a reputation for observing the ritual proprieties, and preserved splendid “precious scrolls” from the 18th century, but their fine tradition of reciting them was going into decline even before Liberation. The first historical material on the list consists of four names (“transmitters of the ritual business”) from the 1920s. Unusually, having originally been a temple-based ritual association based on reciting the scriptures, they had diversified by adopting secular genres, acquiring opera in the 1930s, reformed pingju opera in 1951, “Southern music” in the 1960s (learned from their sister association in South village), and lion dancing in 1981.
The 1990s As the economic liberalisations gathered pace and communal consciousness was attenuated, many village associations that had revived found it hard to maintain activity. In Gaoluo the 1990s were distinctive for the renewed energy provided by our fieldwork (Plucking the winds, pp.189–205).
After our first visit over the New Year’s rituals in 1989, our association now resolved to refurbish their “public building”, which they had reclaimed from the village brigade after the collapse of the commune system. This initiative was led by the then village chief Cai Ran, himself a keen member of the “civil altar”. After writing enterprisingly but unsuccessfully to the Music Research Institute in Beijing to request funding for the project, they managed to be self-sufficient in realising the project, with villagers donating money and labour.
So in 1990 the leaders of our association invited Shan Fuyi to make a new donors’ list. His substantial text outlining the association’s history (see Ritual images: Gaoluo) makes clear that my visit was a stimulus for the project; still, it was written with no guarantee that outsiders would return.
The 1990 list names 270 heads of households. Still, villagers were becoming less conscientious about donating (see Women of Gaoluo, under “Rural sexism”).
From the 1930 and 1990 lists alone, we can hardly perceive change. The association still served the ritual needs of the villagers, and was still supported by most households in its catchment area. Without thick description from fieldwork and interviews, we might never know how ritual and social life were changing.
In the early 1990s there were several thefts of ritual artefacts in Gaoluo—but this served as a stimulus for the association to reclaim those that had been taken off by cultural authorities under Maoism.
The lantern tent of the South village ritual association, 1998, with new and newly-copied donors’ lists.
Our attention to the South village ritual association stimulated another competitive ritual flurry among the two villages’ other three ritual associations. For New Year 1990 the North village ritual association also had new ritual paintings made, of their own pantheon and the Ten Kings of the Underworld (for the donors’ list commemorating this initiative, see under Ritual images: Gaoluo). We also saw a more transient paper list of expenses from New Year 1992, pasted at the entrance to their ritual building, and already decrepit and hard to read by the following summer. They had received 690.47 yuan; they had incurred expenses such as buying coal, meat, vegetables, doufu, oil, salt, tea, firecrackers, tuning sheng, buying cloth bags for sheng, copying scores, and mounting ritual manuals and paintings—all conscientiously recorded. At New Year 1998 we saw their paper lists of income and expenses for the past year. Most of the association’s income had come from the hiring of crockery; donations had also been made when the association performed funerals (the rate being around 100 yuan). Some individuals had donated cash (one as much as 750 yuan), and the village committee had given 200 yuan. They had received 3,638.2 yuan (including 939.8 yuan brought forward from the previous year) and spent 2,992.2 yuan.
After the demise of the commune system, the South village Guanyin Hall must have revived along with the other associations by about 1980. Following our 1989 visit and the revamping of the ritual associations of North and South villages, they too had a surge of energy. For New Year 1992 they made a new donors’ list (image here) for the rebuilding of their humble ritual building, with this inscription:
The Eastern Lantern Association of South Gaoluo rebuilt its public building in 1992 AD under the People’s Republic of China, with the aid of the donors listed above. Total expenditure 2,984 yuan 4 jiao; 15 yuan surplus.
The list shows 215 household heads giving sums from 20 yuan to 2 yuan.
Conclusion In all, community support for ritual life had not waned despite successive social upheavals. But new challenges were taking their toll: migration to the towns in search of work, state education, and popular media culture. Since my last visit in 2003, Gaoluo has continued to be transformed—notably by the arrival of the Intangible Cultural Heritage system, which I will address soon.
Static, silent material artefacts are most instructive when we can use them in conjunction with fieldwork and interview, helping us connect them to changing social life, filling in the gaps, learning more about practice and personalities over time. This is where the ethnographer has an advantage over the historian. I wish we had been able to find yet more detail—for instance on the 1950s: how funerals were changing, how calendrical rituals became less frequent, the decline of the vocal liturgy, and so on. We were lucky to be able to consult people who had taken part in the events commemorated in donors’ lists; but as time goes by, fewer villagers remain who can recall the early years of Maoism, let alone the “old society” before 1949.
[1] See the index of Plucking the winds, under “donations and donors’ lists”; Zhang Zhentao, Yinyuehui, pp.116–35, copies and discusses all the Gaoluo donors’ lists. On this site, note also the series of articles under the Gaoluo rubric of the main Menu.
Stone, cloth, paper: economic support for village ritual associations
My new film on Gaoluo prompts me to revisit our fieldwork the ritual associations of the Hebei plain—a task further stimulated by the recent reification of these groups under the Intangible Cultural Heritage system. I now wish to outline economic support for such ritual organisations under the successive political regimes of modern times—”breaking through the 1949 barrier”.
First, in this post I expand on some themes from my survey of ritual associations on the Hebei plain; and in a sequel I focus on Gaoluo, where we found a wealth of ritual artefacts to accompany our prolonged fieldwork and discussions with villagers. Both essays are mere samples of the material we collected through the 1990s—please excuse the considerable overlap with many of my previous writings, both on the ritual associations and on Gaoluo. [1]
Introduction Living traditions of Chinese folk ritual provide a rich source of material artefacts dating back several centuries (cf. China’s hidden century). Still, they are mere snapshots of particular moments: one hopes to be able to augment them by fieldwork on observed ritual practice and the oral accounts of villagers throughout living memory.
In rural China, as everywhere, ritual and cultural life depends on moral and economic support from local communities. Patronage, in cash and in kind, depends on the nature and scale of the enterprise.Occupational family-based groups such as household Daoists and shawm bands (as well as individual intermediaries like spirit mediums) are paid for a particular event such as a funeral, and have successfully adapted to changing patterns of social support in the post-reform era.
In the religious sphere, alongside local temples, the composite term huidaomen (used pejoratively by the Communist state—hui Association, dao “Way”, and men “Gate”) subsumes both ascriptiveamateurvillage-widedevotionalassociations and voluntarysectariangroups. On the Hebei plain, the two broad categories overlapped (see e.g. our notes on Xiongxian and Xushui counties).
Priding themselves on not accepting payment, ascriptive ritual associations have long relied on recouping their expenses through donations from the village communities whose ritual needs they serve. But whereas support for voluntary sectarian (as well as Catholic) groups remains grounded in enduring faith, the ascriptive associations have faced a particular crisis in the new economic climate since the 1980s.
Temples and temple fairs, ritual associations and the “public building” Temples have always been an important focus of community life, and in many regions they remain so, such as in south China (Fujian, Jiangxi, Hunan, and so on) and the northwest—although much research there has focused on the imperial legacy rather than modern change.
On the Hebei plain, temples were ubiquitous until the 1950s. Village ritual associations learned from Buddhist or Daoist temple clerics, or from other nearby associations that had done so, at various times since the Ming dynasty; they existed mainly to serve the village temples. But in a long process over the 20th century, temples were destroyed or abandoned; rather few have been rebuilt since the 1980s’ liberalisations, and still fewer have any regular staff apart from a temple-keeper. So the main venue for the reduced calendrical rituals of such villages became the “public building” (guanfangzi: Zhang Zhentao,Yinyuehui, pp.181–204), an inconspicuous building only adorned with god paintings and other ritual artefacts, easily stored away, during calendrical rituals on behalf of the community. Besides the long-term decline of active temples in the region, this may suggest insecurity among village communities through political upheavals.
Villages that have restored their former temples are in a minority, but in such cases the refurbished temples seem to provide a greater focus, visited and tended more often, as in Gaozhuang (Xushui county) and two villages in Xiongxian county, Hanzhuang and Kaikou. Still, their annual ritual calendar remains quite sparse (see my survey, under “Ritual duties”).
Even once we recognise the importance of the “public building”, a major part of the duties of these associations is to supply funeral rituals at the homes of deceased villagers.
Donors’ lists Alongside the wealth of material artefacts that we found among the Hebei village ritual associations (ritual paintings, ritual manuals, scores, and so on) are donors’ lists (beiwen碑文), documenting support over the previous year, or for a major initiative. Displayed alongside the god paintings in the ritual building, they proclaim the associations’ support among their community for providing calendrical observances and funerals, symbolising the village’s sacred core. As Zhang Zhentao notes, local terms like beiwen and bushi布施 (“donating”) remind us of the living connection of these groups with the tradition of supporting Buddhist and Daoist temples.
More ephemerally than the stone steles of temples, the donors’ lists of Hebei village ritual associations are commonly inscribed on cloth; but many are even more perishable, written on paper, pasted on the wall of the ritual building over the New Year’s rituals—when new donations (often in cigarettes and tea) are recorded daily. Thus they might never be documented unless some ethnographer happened to be there to take photos at the time.
Throughout China, paper documents are commonly pasted up announcing temple fairs, temple inaugurations, and particular rituals; some of these may record donors and amounts contributed. Even for weddings and funerals, scribes record gifts. The donors’ lists of the Hebei associations are rather different, recording the names of household heads—thereby establishing them as members of the association not just for particular rituals but throughout the year—and amounts contributed. Since these associations were responsible for performing rituals on behalf of the whole village, their leaders sought donations from virtually every household. Besides a few more affluent patrons, most families could only afford a token contribution.
While village ritual associations were inextricably linked to their local temples, there is no direct transition from the stone steles of the latter to the cloth and paper memorials of the former. Most associations must have made donors’ lists ever since their founding, generally in the Qing dynasty or even the Ming, but alas they don’t survive. Even if they did, we couldn’t make a simple comparison.
For those Hebei temples that have been rebuilt since the 1980s’ liberalisations, we found a rare instance of a stone inscription listing donations on the back of the 1993 stele for the inauguration of the Ancestral Hall to Venerable Mother (Laomu citang) in Gaozhuang, Xushui county—led by the village’s ritual association.
Whatever the material on which such lists are written, the Hebei associations are mostly village-wide public bodies, perhaps encouraging them to openly display both their expenditure and the names of their patrons. Still, many of these groups have sectarian ancestry, so I wonder if such lists have been documented among sectarian groups elsewhere in China—leads welcome.
Lists of expenses Also often detailed on such lists is the expenditure of the association, justifying the leaders’ probity on behalf of their patrons. Expenses documented include replacing instruments or maintaining them (notably tuning and repairing sheng mouth-organs), commissioning new ritual paintings; buying other equipment (tables, pennants, incense, candles, lanterns, paper, food for banquets); “utility bills” for the ritual building or rehearsal venue (coal for rehearsals, oil for lanterns, electricity); and New Year’s expenses such as firecrackers. For example, again from Gaozhuang is a paper list of expenses from 1995:
Here’s a 1994 list of expenses from Kaikou village (Xiongxian county) for the revival of the temple and its association (Zhang, Yinyuehui, pp.140–43):
Beiwen with written histories Rather as temple steles from imperial times might also document successive renovations, some donors’ lists include brief histories. Some associations even composed separate histories, such as a 1990 banner from Xin’anzhuang, Renqiu county:
Was this prompted by some interest from county cultural workers, I wonder? It clearly constituted some kind of public declaration; but the preludes of some gongche solfeggio scores of the paraliturgical melodic ensemble, whose readership was limited to the performers themselves, also contain brief histories of the association, like those of Longhua from 1963 and 1980 (for both Longhua and Xin’anzhuang, see under Ritual groups around the Baiyangdian lake).
Intriguingly, the instances that we documented were written since the 1949 revolution. Under state socialism, did political anxieties now prompt ritual associations to proclaim or justify their history, portraying the tradition as “culture”, downplaying religion? Re-reading the brief texts that head some donors’ lists, I find them diplomatic, distancing the associations from sectarian connections, claiming a place within the official discourse long before the Intangible Cultural Heritage. This seems to complement the innocuous appearance of the “public building”, the easily-concealed ritual artefacts, and indeed the growing prevalence of the shengguan instrumental ensemble over the vocal liturgy.
Still, such histories can make a useful starting point as we compile more detailed accounts from villagers’ oral recollections.
Some further examples Apart from the Gaoluo associations (to be discussed in a separate post), Zhang Zhentao (Yinyuehui, pp.130–50) details donors’ lists from other village groups we visited on the Hebei plain. These include two 1992 paper lists from North Qiaotou in Yixian county (Zhang, Yinyuehui, pp.136–40; see my discussion here)—a donors’ list introduced by a text in praise of the association’s benevolent virtue:
and their list of expenses:
In Xushui county, on our visit to North Liyuan in 1995 we found donors listed on a blackboard:
Also under my page on Ritual groups of Xushui is material on the rebuilding of village temples in East Zhangfeng (§8) and Xiefangying (§9). Zhang Zhentao further documents lists from Zhaobeikou on the Baiyangdian lake, and Fuxin in Wen’an county.
Many of these groups were of sectarian ancestry—the North Qiaotou association derived from a Hunyuan sect, for instance. As I suggested above, perhaps this made their public proclamation of charitable virtue still more apposite, counteracting state suspicion of “superstition”.
Summary Static, silent material artefacts only provide snapshots in the life of these groups. They are most instructive when we can use them in conjunction with fieldwork, helping us connect them to changing social life, filling in the gaps for the intervening periods, learning more about practice and personalities over time, using the frozen material evidence to prompt recollections from villagers, building up a picture of the longer term. This requires prolonged familiarity—as we gained in Gaoluo, subject of the following post.
And to repeat my point yet again, whereas the topic was discovered by musicologists, it belongs firmly within the study of folk religion and society.
[1] For the Hebei ritual associations, see this survey, and many pages under the Gaoluo and Hebei rubrics of the main Menu. Besides my 2004 book Plucking the winds, as well as “Ritual music under Mao and Deng” and “Revival in crisis”, note in particular Zhang Zhentao’s 2002 book Yinyuehui: Jizhong xiangcun lisuzhongde guchuiyueshe 音乐会: 冀中乡村礼俗中的鼓吹乐社. Like his discussions of the “public building” and gongche scores (pp.181–204, 365–407), his chapter on donors’ lists (pp.115–80) is excellent; following perceptive discussions of particular lists, he analyses the material on pp.150–79, including the role of the local gentry in supporting ritual associations, and comparison with the opaque economics of the mercenary shawm bands.
Parry being a self-avowed explorer rather than an anthropologist, his programmes are more entertainment than education. The same formulas recur (contact, ordeals of pain and drugs, sharing food, camaraderie, fond farewells…), with sensationalism obligatory—the price that must be paid to get on TV. Yet the programmes remain attractive in a way that hardcore ethnographic film can hardly match.
It’s worth consulting Anthropology today for some nuanced discussions of the original series:
Pat Caplan, “In search of the exotic: a discussion of the BBC2 series Tribe“,21.2 (2005)
Felicia Hughes-Freeland, “Tribes and tribulations: a response to Pat Caplan”,22.2 (2006)
André Singer, “Tribes and tribulations: a response to Hughes-Freeland”,22.3 (2006)
Adam Fish and Sarah Evershed, “Anthropologists responding to anthropological television: a response to Caplan, Hughes-Freeland, and Singer”, 22.4 (2006).
Caplan sets the critical tone. As she observes, since the halcyon days of the 1970s and 1980s, anthropology has largely disappeared from our TV screens; but “while the genre of ethnographic film has burgeoned and grown in sophistication, it has also now been relegated to specialist festivals and the classroom.” As she observes, anthropologists may be dismissive of such popular searches for the exotic, “their irritation perhaps stemm[ing] in part from having territory they considered their own invaded by ‘amateurs’ “. She doubts that the programmes “banished many of the tribal stereotypes” or “told the truth about their changing lives”. As she observes, many of these societies have been researched by anthropologists, and some are exposed to tourism—despite the impression given that they were virtually “discovered” by the series.
Hughes-Freeland too, while describing Tribe as a “Victorian romp”, wonders how genuine anthropology might gain a popular public profile. Singer is more tolerant:
Bruce Parry is sincere in his desire to understand and attempt to identify with whatever society he finds himself visiting; and he makes no claims to any deep anthropological insights or analysis. He’s an explorer and adventurer, the curious outsider who pretends for a short while to be an insider. It’s a process he enjoys, a sentiment apparently shared by his hosts who frequently make fun of his often inept efforts at trying to be one of them.
Yes, we need to worry about perpetuating the old stereotypes, and yes, there is a “hint of the ‘noble savage’ conceit in the series” but there is also genuine affection, respect (both ways) and empathy with the subjects chosen.
Singer calls for anthropologists to engage effectively with TV rather than standing snootily on the sidelines. Fish and Evershed also defend the series. They note that Tribe “reveals the process of beginning fieldwork rather than announcing the results”, the process of establishing rapport; it “shares more with contemporary trends in reflexive ethnography than with the observational ethnography of the past”. And they note that Parry does indeed feature globalisation and change. “Anthropology’s inability to generate a substantial television audience results from academic elitism”.
Threads of entertainment and education course through Tribe, allowing viewers to braid cross-cultural encounters in a global world. As the boundaries separating the rural and the urban, the wild and the domestic, the provincial and the cosmopolitan are further eroded by the pervasiveness of global media, migration, and macroeconomics, so too will the discrete subjects of anthropologist and television producer, and indigene and viewer, tend to merge.
If anthropology is to have a future in this transnational multimediated world to come, we are going to need to apply our tools of cultural relativity to television programmes, producers, hosts and audiences. Before we become shareholders in the future of anthropological television we must become better ethnographers of the modes of media production and reception.
At least Tribe may lead some curious viewers to do some fruitful Googling to learn a little about groups whose lives are otherwise sidelined in the media.
Click here for some ethnographic documentaries on China and elsewhere. BTW, those same issues of Anthropology today also contain thoughts on Kate Fox’s splendid popular book Watching the English.
Movies about music are a minefield, whatever the genre (for Western Art Music, see e.g. Maestro, Philharmonia, Endeavour). But rewatching The Commitments(Alan Parker, 1991), based on the book by Roddy Doyle, I relished its charm just as much as when it first came out—though it’s less obviously political than Brassed off, and stands in total contrast to Parker’s 1988 film Mississippi burning.
Set in working-class north Dublin, The Commitments evokes the ecstasy and drudge common to a wide range of performers around the world (for a fine ethnography, see The hidden musicians; see also Deviating from behavioural norms), with an inexperienced cast (always a good sign) is full of character, led by Andrew Strong as larger-than-life singer Deco Cuffe.
The Irish are the blacks of Europe. Dubliners are the blacks of Ireland. North Dubliners are the blacks of Dublin.
The film works both in its own right, as a portrayal of the lives of struggling young Dubliners, and as a tribute to the great era of soul (cf. Detroit 67, Memphis 68, Northern soul). It leads me to some original tracks that had (predictably) escaped me, starting with two songs of Wilson Pickett—Mustang Sally:
and In the midnight hour:
Try a little tenderness—Otis Redding:
Take me to the river—Al Green:
Chain of fools—Aretha Franklin (and as if I need to remind you of her Amazing Grace, here it is again!):
*Furthering my education in the travails of modern Tibet*
Within the Tibetan cultural world, research on the Amdo region (see e.g. here) has become a remarkably dynamic field of scholarship. A fine recent instance is
Timothy Thurston, Satirical Tibet; the politics of humor in contemporary Amdo (2024; open access here), in the University of Washington Press series Studies on ethnic groups in China. Here’s the publisher’s blurb:
Humour has long been a vital, if under-recognised, component of Tibetan life. In recent years, alongside well-publicised struggles for religious freedom and cultural preservation, comedians, hip-hop artists, and other creatives have used zurza, the Tibetan art of satire, to render meaningful social and political critique under the ever-present eye of the Chinese state. Timothy Thurston’s Satirical Tibet offers the first-ever look at this powerful tool of misdirection and inversion. Focusing on the region of Amdo, Thurston introduces the vibrant and technologically innovative comedy scene that took shape following the death of Mao Zedong and the rise of ethnic revival policies. He moves decade by decade to show how artists have folded zurza into stage performances, radio broadcasts, televised sketch comedies, and hip-hop lyrics to criticise injustices, steer popular attitudes, and encourage the survival of Tibetan culture.
Surprising and vivid, Satirical Tibet shows how the ever-changing uses and meanings of a time-honored art form allow Tibetans to shape their society while navigating tightly controlled media channels.
As Stevan Harrell, editor of the series, observes in his Foreword:
Because Tibetans are an oppressed people, we can easily assume that there is little joy or laughter in their lives, and that we should approach their predicament with uniform solemnity. This is wrong. Tibetans deal with the tragedy of Communist oppression as they have dealt with the vicissitudes of life on Earth for centuries—not only with “quiet desperation” or extreme religious devotion but also with uproarious comedy and biting satire.
Whereas some studies of Tibetan folk traditions sadly circumvent sensitive issues (e.g. Shépa: The Tibetan oral tradition in Choné), Thurston engages fully with modern Amdo society, illustrating periods since the reform era of the 1980s through changing popular media. As he notes, such satirical sketches (for which he uses the nuanced term zurza) always have a serious purpose, exploring a social problem of some sort: they convey important messages about contemporary Tibetan life, shaping attitudes towards issues such as language, culture, urbanisation, education, territory disputes—and the popular topic of fake lamas. Such sketches may be subversive, but they are not “underground”: though inevitably accommodating to the institutions of the Chinese state, a large part of their efficacity lies in the very fact that they can be aired in the public domain.
Thurston’s extensive quotes from the various genres are instructive, even if their broad appeal to Amdowa people is hard to convey in English. Though the book lacks images, for this post he has kindly suggested some illustrative YouTube clips, embedded below. The extensive final References are useful.
The Introduction, “Doing zurza”, provides useful context.
Zurza and the laughter that frequently accompanies it are hardly the first things most people think about when they hear the words China and Tibet in the same sentence. And why should they be? Many in the Euro-American “West” may hear the word Tibet and think of a traditionally Buddhist society, perhaps oppressed by a colonising Chinese Communist Party. The same people may think of recent news reporting about Tibetans self-immolating, and Tibet’s Nobel Prize-winning exiled religious leader. For many who have grown up in China, meanwhile, images may range from a feudal society liberated by and incorporated into the People’s Republic in the 1950s, to news spots showing Tibetans dancing happily in displays of gratitude to the Communist Party for the “gift” of modernity, to a pristine environment for young Han to conquer as they escape from China’s heavily polluted coastal metropolises. These descriptions, all carrying elements of truth, select some of the most contrasting images possible to make a rhetorical point. But the discourses of modernity and progress, and of traumatic experience and dramatic resistance, all emphasise grand narratives that leave little room for zurza.
Set against the background of these ongoing and well-publicised cultural and political tensions, a book about a topic as seemingly trivial as zurza and humour can come across as being in poor taste. And yet, laughter has served as the soundtrack to almost every one of my experiences of Tibet. This also manifests in everyday life. During dinners among friends, the seemingly endless toasting with liquor—almost always three cups at a time—often lowered inhibitions to the point at which teasing and reminiscing might devolve into uncontrolled hilarity. At traditional weddings, women from the host village may use humour and wit to demand some sort of payment or gift from the visiting representatives of the person marrying into the village (usually the maternal uncles of the bride). In the valley of Rebgong, interludes in the annual harvest festival featuring inebriated villagers—sometimes cross-dressing or wearing monks’ robes—may make fun of the behaviour of certain members of the community, to the applause and laughter of all in attendance. Tibetan communities possess a diverse vocabulary for humorous activity that mirrors the diversity of ways that laughter appears in everyday life, including kure (joking), labjyagpa (boasting), tséwa (play), and zurza. This humour frequently accomplished important social work: to entertain, mask existential pain, serve hegemonic forces, speak the otherwise unspeakable, provide a “steam-valve” for social discontent, and/or to project and reflect worldviews. […]
When famed trickster Uncle Tonpa tricks a landlord or merchant, or makes a king bark like a dog, he “does zurza.” When the seventeenth-century lama Shar Kalden Jyamtso (1607–1677) composed songs poking fun at the behaviour of monks, he was also “doing zurza.” And when a contemporary comedian mocks people whose behaviour seems out of touch in the contemporary moment, they too do zurza.
In Chapter 1, “Dokwa: ‘eating the sides’ in oral and literary traditions”, Thurston notes:
Amdo boasts an incredible array of oral and festival traditions. Just focusing on the oral ones, Tibetans in Amdo are known to perform a variety of secular and religious verbal arts, including but not limited to tamhwé (proverbs), tamshel (speeches), khel (riddles), laye (love songs), and lushag (antiphonal song duels). These sit alongside a much broader array of oral and festival practices from across the Tibetan cultural world [see e.g. under Bhutan].
He also adduces the satirical street songs of Lhasa from before the Chinese invasion (Goldstein 1982), and satirical elements in Tibetan opera, as well as in other cultures.
Not limited to the oral tradition, Tibetan poets and authors like the renowned early-20th-century polymath Gendun Chopel also traditionally used zurza in satirical poems to criticise the behaviour of others, including powerful monks. […]
Even in the most difficult moments of the Maoist and post-Mao reform eras—periods when the Tibetan language and portrayals of Tibetan traditions in media faced tight restrictions—zurza served as one valuable tool for authors, folktale collectors, and others to be seen and heard.
Chapter 2, “Khashag: language, print, and ethnic pride in the 1980s”, introduces the scripted, staged performances of khashag “crosstalk” dialogues after the end of tjhe Cultural Revolution (reminiscent of the Chinese art of xiangsheng), which satirised the politics of language and ethnicity in the emerging post-Mao order. In Chapter 3, “Khashag on air: solving social ills by radio in the 1990s”, Thurston gives detailed, astute comments on the “Careful Village” sketches of Menla Jyab, who shared “complex critiques about Tibetan engagement with modernity”.
Whereas comic dialogues had hitherto been disseminated mainly via radio broadcasts and audio cassettes, Chapter 4, “Garchung: televised sketches and a cultural turn in the 2000s”, explores the new style of garchung that extended from state TV stations to VCDs and the internet. Audiences could now see as well as hear the performers, requiring more preparation and better acting. In style and themes, these sketches continued to reflect the rapidly changing conditions in Amdo, such as (in Harrell’s words) “the increasingly precarious state of Tibetan culture, with many barbs directed at both Chinese and foreigners who began to view Tibet as a source of religious and ecological inspiration, often aided by Tibetans eager to benefit from their national and cosmopolitan connections.” The main exhibit here is “Gesar’s Horse Herder”:
In the wake of the repression following the 2008 Beijing Olympics, Chapter 5 explores “Zheematam: Tibetan hip-hop in the digital world”. The emerging cultural nationalism of the previous decade now “moves online, intensifies, and becomes more frustrated. With this change, new forms of satirical cultural production emerge to articulate this critique digitally.” This new genre provided
a new generation of artists with opportunities to rework oral traditions and emerging cultural practices—in conjunction with modern concerns about linguistic and cultural loss—into new and emerging art forms. In doing so, their work builds on the trends of previous generations and articulates a new set of concerns, all during a period of increasing restrictions in Tibet’s cultural sphere.
Thurston contrasts the styles of Uncle Buddhist, such as his 2019 song City Tibetan:
and Jason J, such as Alalamo:
In such work,
artists still say they are “doing zurza,” but it ceases to be as humorous or playful. Instead, it uses indirection to articulate an (at times) almost angry cultural nationalism directed both at the current conditions of Tibetan life and of the intellectual foundations of Tibetan modernism. The example of Jason J, however, demonstrates that this inversion and indirection also ensures that zurza provides a resource of constant revision and renewal of Tibetan culture in the face of increasing political and economic headwinds.
In his Conclusion, “The irrepressible trickster”, Thurston reflects saliently:
I left Amdo in 2015, returning for short trips each year prior to 2019. Since leaving, I often struggled to describe to people outside of China—including but not limited to academics, activists, and members of the exile community—the very complex calculus of internal motivations, social pressures, and external incentives that seemed to shape the decision-making processes of the Tibetans I met. At conferences, workshops, and in casual conversations, my descriptions were frequently met with some variation of the response: “They’re brainwashed” or “They have no choice”. Others reflexively seemed to blame every problem on “the Chinese.” I cannot accept these assumptions—at least not when formulated in this way.
Tibetans in the People’s Republic undoubtedly live in and navigate a highly constrained environment, in which they must carefully monitor what they say and do (and, as I have shown in this book, how they say and do them). But ignoring the creative ways that Tibetans have maintained and even revolutionised their culture—both from within the state system and in resistance to it—denies them agency and treats them only as victims. I have shown how zurza—the Tibetan arts of indirection, sarcasm, and satire—provided cultural producers with a powerful way of actively localising new expressive resources, accessing state media to do this work, and ensuring Tibetan physical and cultural presence in some of the harshest of times. Across decades and media, the texts examined in this book record some of the ways that Tibetans have used zurza to foreground issues seen as particularly pressing for their communities in spite of the tremendously asymmetric power of the Chinese state.
Such ethnographic research on the embattled resilience of Tibetan culture within the PRC evinces an impressive maturity in Amdo studies, belying the simplistic polarised propaganda of both Party apologists and the exile community.
Derya Yıldırım. Image: Steve Galli/Shutterstock. Source.
In the random way that is typical of my exposure to popular culture altogether, I came across
Derya Yıldırım and Grup Şimşek,
“blending Anatolian melodies with modern psychedelic flair” (see here, and on YouTube, listen here and here).
Born in Hamburg to Turkish parents, Derya Yıldırım (here, and Guardian) grew up immersed both in the diversity of Hamburg and in her family’s Anatolian roots, learning the bağlama. In 2014 she formed Grup Şimşek with international musicians.
My new filmon the 1995 New Year’s rituals in Gaoluo has recently been screened at a grand event (billed as a conference) in the village itself, thanks to the enterprise of Wei Xiaoshi (CDTM) in collaboration with Cai Yurun, who has long served both as leader of the ritual association and the village. A detailed review of the occasion has just appeared on the CDTM WeChat site (click here).
I’m delighted that my old fieldwork companion Xue Yibing could take part—we witnessed the New Year’s rituals in the village together for the first time in 1989, and his careful fieldnotes on Gaoluo and other villages over the next decade were invaluable (see mainly under Hebei in main Menu).
Gaoluo: our first visit to the Lantern Tent, New Year 1989.
One of my sessions with village litterateur Shan Fuyi, displayed on his daughter-in-law’s mobile.
I trust the film was well received, giving younger villagers an opportunity to glimpse their parents and grandparents in the days before the reified commodification inculcated by the Intangible Cultural Heritage began to influence their practices. With sonorous speeches inevitably the order of the day, the constraints of the occasion made me nostalgic for the informality of our fieldwork. The very setting, in a revamped Party Committee office, suggested how material conditions in the village have improved since my visits.
South Gaoluo New Year’s rituals, 2025. Images: Wei Xiaoshi.
Still, the religious context has not been lost: the New Year’s rituals still attract the village faithful, and the association still performs funerals for them. But the authoritative Cai Yurun voiced concerns that ICH support still can’t guarantee the future prospects of the association—in particular the vocal liturgy (which has been in a wider decline on the Hebei plain for many decades). It would take a further period of lengthy immersion in the villagers’ lives to learn their true perceptions (perhaps prompted by the film) on social and ritual change over these last thirty years. My film didn’t seem to prompt comments on how significantly the ethnographic perspective differs from the sanitised media approach typified by the ICH, but Zhang Zhentao has now published an intriguing review on this topic. Inevitably, whereas my book Plucking the winds stresses the constant tribulations of such villages under successive regimes, the prevailing congratulatory mood within China discourages such an approach.
Enbedded in the review of the event, the performance of the percussion suite in the courtyard, while still technically accomplished, inevitably lacks the spirit of the 1995 rendition before the gods. I doubt that this derives merely from the official secular context of the event; the total commitment of masters of yore like Cai An and Shan Rongqing seems to have been diluted.
Above: the association with helpers, 1995 Below: members of the association with connference delegates, 2025.
The Chinese version of the film will soon be available both on my YouTube channel (alongside the English version) and (in China) on the CDTM website. And do browse the posts under Gaoluo in the top Menu!
Click here for recent screenings in Leiden of my films on the Li family Daoists and Gaoluo.
Among journalists based in China through the early years of reform, I admire the work of John Gittings, whose books such as Real China: From cannibalism to karaoke (1996) and The changing face of China (2005) make useful background to our studies.
Stories that appear to be told by still images are beguiling yet facile. I’ve been appreciating Gittings’ recent blogposts (here and here) in which he reflects on the relationship between words and photos in his coverage for the Guardian from 1978 until he retired in 2003.
Looking through my selection, I can see that many fall into one of three different types. There are those that contain visual pointers or signals—perhaps missed by me at the time they were taken—which add meaning to what is shown and what is remembered. A second type invites the viewer to reflect on the hidden history behind their subject matter—a more speculative delving into the past. Then there are a small number that cast retrospective doubt on what I wrote at the time: that can be unsettling.
Alongside telling images of Tiananmen in 1980 and 1989 are photos of his trips further afield. At the Qilin temple, Shandong, in 1997:
Many of the attenders were elderly women such as these, who had been brought from other villages on open-backed tractor-trailers. They burnt incense in front of the temple, and each was given a box of cookies. Studying their faces now, I can see that they are very tired: it may have been a long way back to their homes. And I wonder about their long, hidden, history too. Age is always hard to estimate but the oldest ones may have been born not long after the fall of the Qing dynasty. They would have experienced warlord upheavals, floods and famine, Japanese atrocities, revolutionary war, land reform, the Great Leap Forward, the Cultural Revolution and more. What memories from the past were revived when they attended the re-opening of the Qilin temple?
Anhui, 1982:
The old village houses are built in rows, with packed mud walls, tamped mud floor, and a thick thatched roof now dripping in the spring rain. Small children peer out of front doors, buffalo and oxen huddle close to the back doors. A few chickens scurry in the liquid mud. Fengyang County in Anhui province has always been desperately poor, and is only slowly beginning to change. There had been some improvement after the 1949 Communist victory, but Mao’s Great Leap Forward was a disaster. People ate dogs to survive, and in 1959–61, one in six of the population died “in an irregular manner”—the euphemism for starvation. I have been taken to Kaocheng, till recently a People’s Commune but now part of a pilot experiment for the Commune to be replaced by a new structure that returns power to the local area. It has already been the pace-setter for the rest of Anhui province, trialling a new “responsibility system” that allows peasants some freedoms to farm the land. They are assigned a plot of state-owned land and have to contribute a fixed quota of their produce, but can decide what else to grow and sell it for themselves. The traditional village markets have re-appeared—I saw a huge cattle-fair under way on a dried-up river bed—and small-scale businesses are no longer banned as “sprouts of capitalism”.
Urumqi, 1978:
Sometimes the images that I revisit now do not chime with the words that I wrote then, and the retrospective doubts that this raises are hard to resolve. On my first solo trip to China, I interviewed the imam of the main mosque in Urumqi, which had not long re-opened, and I then took the photo above of him at the mosque entrance, together with members of his committee. In the story I wrote at the time, I described the imam as having given a “cheerful” account of the mosque’s revived fortune. That adjective could not be applied to this photo. Were they just being solemn for the camera, or had I been misled by the “short introduction” (carefully prepared with the relevant authorities) that the imam had just delivered? The photo would not have been developed till I returned to England, and probably after I had written up the story. Does it suggest a rather less “cheerful” situation?
Another image from 1978:
The Muslim minorities, Uighur and Kazakh, in this farthest west corner of China had a hard time during the Cultural Revolution. “They closed the mosques, and would not let people wear their caps”, I am told in late 1978. The Arabic script had been replaced by a Roman alphabet that few could understand, and the history of the minorities was suppressed. Local organisations including street committees were only now being “restored”. I am taken to a new “workers’ home” to see how life is so much better. The bearded patriarch Tuerdi had 82 direct descendants down to his great-grandchildren. His youngest daughter has returned from teacher training college in Wuhan (she is on the right). On the left are Tuerdi and his wife; next to them is the head of the Street Committee whom I describe in my notes as “trying to interrupt whenever possible”. Behind her is a friendly neighbour, the only person who is smiling. The positions adopted in the photo are revealing: the Han Chinese cadre is in the centre background; his Uighur colleague next to him. I also note that Uighur cadres behave “with an air of deference” towards their Han superiors.
Considering a photo he took on a trip to Qinghai in 2003, Gittings reflects:
High up on a dusty plateau in the village of Taktser, Qinghai province, lies the only shrine to the Dalai Lama to be found in China. It is in the house where he was born, and is lovingly cared for by his nephew (shown here). On the altar is a letter written in the Dalai’s own hand. “I was born here with the name of Lhamo Dhundup,” it reads. “I was discovered to be the reincarnation of the previous Dalai Lama and went away. I have never forgotten my home village. I pray for its people and hope they are safe.” A wide valley stretches in the distance to Mount Tsongkhapa whose peak, say the villagers, resembles the Buddha’s head. The balcony outside the house looks across a courtyard decked with prayer flags to a village that has changed very little since 1938, when a search party of high-ranking lamas found the three-year-old Dalai. In 1986 the Chinese government rebuilt the family home, which had been destroyed in the Cultural Revolution, as a gesture in its dialogue with the Tibetan government in exile. Yet no agreement has ever been reached: the house is closed to pilgrims (and as a foreign journalist I am not supposed to be there). “The people of Tibet weep every night and pray for him to return”, I am told. “We are five or six million Tibetans, scattered over a vast land. We can do nothing without him.”
Like journalists, ethnographers often resort to “hit-and-run” visits for surveys of a region. Even when they make a base in one locale over a longer period, photos may give a misleading impression of timelessness—and this is just as true for images of ritual performance. We should always connect “snapshots” to their broader context, as I have sought to do for Gaoluo and the Li family Daoists. Against the backdrop of changing society, there are always personal stories to tell.
As I often stress (e.g. here), the study of both topics belongs firmly within the realm of religious studies, even if it has been dominated by Chinese musicologists. Sure enough, the distinguished sinologist Barend ter Haar graced us with lively comments, and I was delighted to see Tao Jin, formidable authority on Daoist ritual, on a visit from Beijing via Paris (see under Ritual life around Suzhou, and here).
With Tao Jin.
With both films concerning ritual life in north China, their subjects and soundscapes may appear somewhat similar, but the differences are significant (click here for differences in approach that emerge from studying with the two types of group). The Li family Daoists are
occupational, in a small group of five or six
active in a small radius around their home village; constantly busy, mainly for funerals,
with dense ritual sequences,
whereas Gaoluo is
among many amateur devotional associations, village-wide (cf. Xi’an, Yunnan, Jiangsu, and so on)
mostly serving the village itself, and not busy except at New Year,
its ritual sequences less dense.
My most focused fieldwork with the Li family Daoists was from 2011–18, with previous trips in 1991–2 and 2001–3; the film mainly shows footage from 2011 to 2015. My fieldwork in Gaoluo took place from 1989 to 2003, the film footage showing three weeks in 1995.
While the impact of the Intangible Cultural Heritage on the Li family Daoists has been negligible (cf. here), in village ritual associations like Gaoluo it has been major—which makes the 1995 footage even more significant.
I look forward to introducing both films further to live audiences in the coming months. Meanwhile, do watch them online!
The depth of the art of dhrupad singing never fails to entrance me—from the Dagar lineage through to Uday Bhalwalkar, whom I was blessed to hear this weekend in a recital at the Bhavan Centre in west London.
Through the slow, lengthy exposition of the alap, one hangs on every inflection, all the nuances of timbre, as Udayji expounds the pitch relationships—eventful, constantly creative, with a richly calibrated structure. Without neglecting the changing social context, one is drawn back to Hazrat Inayat Khan‘s 1921 book The mysticism and sound ofmusic. The previous day Udayji led a workshop in which he reminded us of the power of singing as a spiritual discipline.
* * *
Perhaps through some imponderable quirk of algorithm, the only widely-viewed post in my raga series is Bhairav–Bhairavi. All the posts are worth consulting, but if any deserve promoting in particular, for me it has to be the one on Yaman Kalyan.
As I marvel at the variety of solo singing styles around the world, dhrupad has a unique aura. For me, Udayji ranks alongside Billie Holiday and Mark Padmore.
While the scene is often adduced as an archetype of romantic love, and the dancing is of course stunning, it’s tricky reacting to the art of bygone ages with modern eyes and ears. Audiences today may find the couple’s “chemistry” elusive, their dynamics pointedly cold. His insistent “wooing”, and her reticent, never-rapturous compliance (“Cut the crap—oh well, at least he can dance”?!), may be standard for the time, but some may find the mood somewhat coercive.
Still, the song itself is brilliant—so we might listen without getting confused about the dance’s sexual politics (cf. racial politics in the filmed version of Only you). As wiki explains, the song’s melody, harmony, and structure are all unusual. In the obsessive opening (often omitted, understandably), after 35 repetitions of the same note (emulating Beethoven?) over a narrow range of chords, the pitch boldly rises twice by a semitone for more repetitions before sliding back to the original pitch for the melody proper. Among several accounts of the song’s origin, this is presumably the source of the reductive orientalist claim that it was inspired by the call to prayer in Morocco (cited here):
The song proper thrives on descending chromatic motifs (cf. Unpromising chromaticisms)–even when we think a regular melody might surface, in bars 44–5 the downward slide continues:
What might be a glorious climactic major 7th leap (making—love, from 1.37, bar 60) may hardly register:
In the dance, just as glorious is the way the band relishes all the rhythmic and melodic flourishes. After the dance, at the very end of the scene, when Astaire asks “Cigarette?”, Rogers still seems underwhelmed—if only she could have anticipated Lesley Nielsen’s immortal riposte in Airplane “Yes, I know”…
Recalling the Lexicon of musical invective is a story that when Porter first played the song for his friend Monty Wooly, Wooly sniffed, “I don’t know what this is you are trying to do, but whatever it is, throw it away. It’s terrible.”
* * *
Among other classic versions, apart from the likes of Ella Fitzgerald and Frank Sinatra, I always treasure Billie Holiday. Encapsulating the heartache of infatuation, she creates a new, angular melody unconstrained by the song’s original chromaticism—here’s her 1939 recording (the band including her constant soulmates Lester Young and Buck Clayton):
Charlie Parker, 1952:
Here’s a lengthy rendition by Stan Getz, live in Kildevælds Church, Copenhagen, 1960:
And Bill Evans in 1959, entirely eschewing the romance of the original—with Philly Joe Jones’s opening drum riff replacing the tom-toms of the lyrics:
Under the current political regime in China, we may have doubts about the scope for in-depth field research; but in the sphere of musicology, grand compilations of previous work continue to proliferate impressively, such as a valuable recent publication from the Music Research Institute (MRI) of the Chinese Academy of Arts:
Zhongguo chuantong yinyue kaocha baogao中国传统音乐考察报告 [Field reports on traditional Chinese music] (ed. Zhongguo yishu yanjiuyan Yinyue yanjiusuo, 10 vols, 2022),
reproducing the MRI’s original fieldwork reports (mostly mimeographs) dating from the 1949 “Liberation” through to the eve of the 1966 Cultural Revolution. For each subject, lists of recordings made at the time are appended. For introductions to the compilation, see e.g. here and here.
Volume 1 is prefaced by an authoritative survey from the redoubtable Zhang Zhentao 张振涛. Scholars now delineate three periods in the modern history of Chinese music fieldwork: the Maoist decades, the Anthology (1980s–90s), and the Intangible Cultural Heritage (ICH) era since around 2004. As Zhang reflects, after the fieldwork for the Anthology and its publication, we didn’t know if we still needed to read these pre-Cultural Revolution “field reports” and what value they might have. The majority of these traditions were, and are, embedded in ritual life—which maintained activity, at least until the Great Leap Forward, and again in the brief interlude between the easing of the ensuing famine and the 1964 Four Cleanups. However, the bulk of these studies focuses on narrowly musical aspects, so clues to social ethnography are in short supply—over a period of great change. Interviews were often conducted during visits by folk groups to urban festivals. Nonetheless, I am as full of admiration as Zhang Zhentao for the achievements of these early scholars.
If the political climate under Maoism had dictated a cautious approach towards ritual, the Anthology era began to hint at a more mature approach to social ethnography; but under the ICH such study is again being hampered by a sanitised patriotic agenda.
In my early years from 1986 visiting the MRI archives in Zuojiazhuang—then still permeated with the atmosphere of Maoism (see under Qiao Jianzhong)—I was immensely fortunate to have access to such studies, photocopying flimsy mimeographs, and I have introduced some of them in earlier posts. They formed a basis for the Anthology fieldwork after the liberalisations of the 1980s. These volumes have long been somewhat hard to find, so I hope they will now be more accessible—as long as libraries outside China can afford to stock the compilation.
Contents, vol.1.
Yang Yinliu 1950.
Zhang again stresses the crucial leading role of Yang Yinliu. Vol.1 opens inevitably with his iconic A Bing quji (1979, based on their long acquaintance before Yang’s 1950 recordings), and his equally numinous studies of northern instrumental traditions: Ziwei village in Dingxian, Hebei (1952), the Zhihua temple (1953), and Xi’an guyue (1953). Vol.5 also includes a report, new to me, on “musical life” in the rural suburbs of Beijing (cf. here). Several studies address Shanxi, such as two reports from 1953—on folk-songs in Hequ, north Shanxi (vol.4), and yangge and huagu (vol. 5).
Hequ 1953Shiban, west Fujian 1962
Vol.1 ends with the 1956 national survey of the qin zither scene led by Zha Fuxi. Vol.3 is devoted entirely to the extensive 1956 Hunan survey led by Yang Yinliu, and vol. 6 includes his insider’s study of the paraliturgical instrumental ensemble music of Daoists in Wuxi, south Jiangsu. Li Quanmin’s report on his 1961–62 survey around Fujian (vol.7) laid a basis for later work there. Vol.4 features an essay on issues in collecting folk-song and instrumental music; vol.10 ends with the 1963 handbook Minjian yinyue caifang shouce 民间音乐采访手册.
Vol.2 is devoted to narrative-singing: danxian paiziqu, narrative-singing in Tianjin, bajiaogu in Liaocheng (Shandong), the liqu of Pu Songling (a rare historical departure), the qingqu of Yangzhou, and Henanquzi.
Studies of the ethnic minorites also punctuate the compilation—such as folk-songs of the Dong and Miao people in Guizhou, and Baisha xiyue in Yunnan (vol.4); the lusheng mouth-organ of the Miao (vol.6), and Mao Jizeng’s 1959 pamphlets on nangma and toshe in Tibet (vol.5). Vol.7 includes further reports from Yunnan, as well as Hainan, and from national events showcasing folk dance and amateur musical life among ethnic minorities. Vols 8 and 9 contain 1958 reports on minority arts festivals, and vol.10 reports on opera festivals—including interviews with performers that give clues to social change before and since “Liberation”.
The era came to an end by 1964 with the tense political climate that led to the Cultural Revolution, silencing both traditional culture and its study until after the reforms of the late 1970s.
As I ponder this disturbing image of the Haunted Pencil, as a solo effort he shouldn’t find it too challenging, but it calls to mind (OK, my mind) the learning process in Chinese folk ensembles.
Left, Li Qishan’s band, Shaanbei. Right, I accompany the Hua family band, funeral. Both images 2001.
Youngsters in a family shawm band begin with the gong, which merely marks the first beat of every bar as the tempo accelerates. This seems simple enough, but as the illustrious Yoyo Ma discovered at the 2002 Silk Road Festival in Washington DC, the novice still needs to acclimatise to the bewildering rhythmic patterns of drum and shawm, which subvert the regular duple metre:
Only somewhat harder to learn is the yunluo, a frame of ten pitched gongs that makes an exquisite part of the shengguan ensemble in ritual groups of north China. While it does involve learning the outline of the melody, it’s still considered the easiest instrument to learn—as a proverb in Hebei goes, “A thousand days for the guanzi, a hundred days for the sheng; you can learn the yunluo by the fifth watch”.
Gaoqiao village ritual association, Bazhou, Hebei 1993; one player on two frames of yunluo.
In the recent CHIME newsletter (subscribe here, under Newsletter), by contrast with Frank Kouwenhoven’s renewed project on temple festivals in Gansu, he reports on the CHIME “travelling fieldwork conference” last November under the aegis of the Zhejiang Conservatory of Music in Hangzhou.
Such a project may sound attractive, changing the focus from dry lectures to engagement with local performers. But despite the best intentions of the regional organisers, the event turned out to be at the mercy of Heritage kitsch. As Frank recalls, things were a good deal more relaxed and more open-minded in 2006, when CHIME held a similar conference in Yulin, Shaanbei. However, I suspect such brief “hit-and-run” missions with large organised gatherings of foreigners and outsiders are inevitably flawed—as Frank comments, “beset with problems, unwanted side-effects, and distortions of local culture”.
In rural China, soundscapes are based in local ritual. But
sadly, participants were mainly taken to tourist villages, which featured many sanitised and commercialised versions of local traditions. […] Perhaps the higher echelons of the conservatory leadership, who picked these targets, were keen to project first and foremost a “modern”, more glamorous image of China’s rural musical cultures. But was the idea that we, the participants, would view the tourist shows as authentic stuff? Many of us happen to be seasoned music scholars, we have already done quite a bit of field research on local genres, perhaps in other parts of China, and sometimes for years or decades on end. But the rest of us, those mainly engaged in educational work or research outside China, would clearly be just as aware that villages in China do not normally require visitors to buy entrance tickets, nor harbour folk singers who dress up in fancy costumes and make ballet-like movements while they sing.
Why not visit a Daoist temple instead, with priests performing ritual opera, a fascinating genre definitely available in Zhejiang […]? Or why not schedule one trip to a local temple fair, where one might come across a whole range of local folk rituals and ceremonies, not tampered with by professional “stage directors”, village heads, or tourist managers?
At Shengzhou the trip sampled Yueju 越剧 opera (now associated primarily with female performers, also in male roles), comparing the student performances at the professional opera school with an amateur group performing at a nearby temple.
The school students behaved rather nervously, as if they were doing auditions, whereas the amateurs seemed more relaxed. As one might expect, the amateurs sounded more folksy and flexible, more rough also in their use of dialect, their tunes were more angular, less polished, mellifluous or spun-out than the “academic” ones. The amateurs were playing mainly for their own enjoyment, or for us and a small in-crowd of connoisseurs, in contrast to the more official shows which teachers and students of the Yueju school may present at commercial stages for paying audiences. […]
Wuju instrumentalists playing long trumpets.
In Jiangshan they also sampled Wuju 婺剧 (aka Jinhua opera). They found that dividing lines between “professional” and “amateur”, between state-funded and private enterprises, not always predictable or clearly defined.
Perhaps the most inspiring group they encountered was a group of string puppet players, again in Jiangshan.
They turned up once every two weeks at the tourist village to do some shows, which is also where we encountered them, but most of the time they’d perform puppet shows in the framework of local temple festivals.
Frank reflects ruefully:
Whether it is wise to undertake another conference on a basis of “traveling fieldwork” in China remains a question. It may well be that the country, in its current very politicised phase, is not sufficiently open to the full potential of rural musical traditions (especially religiously inspired ones).
* * *
In Hannover and Hildesheim the previous month, CHIME held a more conventional academic conference exploring such issues, with the theme of Sustainability and Chinese music.
The splendid Xiao Mei gave a keynote speech showing how ethnic minority performers have adapted admirably to changing times, with few concessions to the traditional character of their music. Frank summarises:
Mobile phones and modern means of transport have come to play crucial roles in the organising of traditional gatherings, and in the transmission of songs and tunes. It means that the traditional spaces designated for meeting one another and joining musical rituals (e.g. temples, sacred sites, mountain tops etc) have greatly expanded: singers may now also join events online, from a remote distance.
In another fine keynote, Huib Schippers pointed out that China is currently spending more money on Intangible Cultural Heritage than any other country in the world. As he pointed out, local people frequently feel disempowered when dealing with authorities. “Only rarely do we hear stories from anywhere in the world where [members of] communities have a real sense of agency in preserving their music”.
And things may become still more difficult in China because of the strong weight attached there in state propaganda to “progress” and “modernisation”. Schippers quoted Gao Shu, a scholar who states that “when traditional musicians in various regions know they will be visited by the Ministry of Culture and Tourism, they change their performance to match what they think is expected of them, rather than playing the music they and their communities value most, in the way it is valued by them”.
What would this amount to in practice? The description might easily evoke cartoonesque images of local village heads, quickly taking action to dress up their local performers in fancy costumes and push musicians onto a stage, while adding all sorts of “extras”, synthesisers, guitars, amplification, light shows, anything that might enhance the chance of their genre being elected as ICH. After all, it could trigger financial support. One can easily also imagine the musicians themselves taking such steps. Unfortunately, this is not comic fantasy, but a plain reality. Fieldworkers in China have reported many instances of overnight transformations of traditional genres. At times they offer a rather bleak panorama of local ICH projects. Such projects, though intended to support and reinforce centuries-old local heritages, may actually distort or destroy them.
For instance, Frank summarises Gao Inga’s discussion of a group of local puppeteers in Huayin, Shaanxi:
The local authorities told them to do away with their shadow screens and shadow puppets, which the officials presumably thought of as old-fashioned or dull. Instead, the players (who had been a “sitting’”band as shadow puppeteers) were now requested to dance to music on stage, initially music from their own repertoire, but soon new music was added, infused with bass, keyboard and other pop instruments. All of these alterations were decided and directed by a local official, who was not part of the original crew.
It’s fine if local performers take autonomous decisions to modernize their own shows, but if government officials apply the ICH label to justify a complete facelift of a rural genre, as happened in Huayin, it becomes questionable. Even if the performers in this case seemed to be happy in their new roles, and with the regular incomes now allotted to them, one cannot help but judge this as a form of destruction. The case was in no way unique. Several of us have come across similar incidences of local shadow theatre cultures being destroyed by local authorities on the pretext of “developing” and “sustaining” them.
On 21–22 February, to mark the closing of the exhibition A Silk Road oasis: life in ancient Dunhuang, the British Library is to hold a two-day symposium (also livestreamed online)—full programme here.
Besides religion and art, literature and languages, topics among a wide range of fascinating papers include the Buddhist slave trade, medicine, costume, and everyday life. And to follow October’s concert curated by Wei Xiaoshi (cf. the British Museum event), he will elaborate on the multi-faceted musical life of Dunhuang.
Complementing updates by Frank Kouwenhoven in the new CHIME newsletter (subscribe here, under Newsletter) on silk-and-bamboo music, I also appreciate two further field reports from him, again written in his communicative style. First he writes on huar 花儿 song festivals in Gansu and Qinghai provinces of northwest China. [1]
Part of the wider phenomenon of shan’ge “mountain songs”, huar has long been a hot topic in Chinese folk-song studies. With his late lamented partner Antoinet Schimmelpenninck, Frank made fieldwork trips there from 1997 to 2009. Do read his substantial chapter
“Love songs and temple festivals in northwest China” in Music, dance, and the art of seduction (2013, soon also to appear on his website), which he co-edited with James Kippen—altogether a fine volume, with a particular focus on India.
In a rapidly changing society, Frank has recently embarked on a restudy, which he outlines with engaging vignettes in the newsletter.
Though huar (an umbrella term) has long been commodified, with leading singers recruited to regional song-and-dance troupes to perform on stage, [2] Frank characterises its local folk basis as part of “the universal triangle of music, sex, and religion”. As often, the study of such festivals should be carried out not only by musicologists but by ethnographers and scholars of ritual. They should also be incorporated into the thriving field of Amdo studies, [3] addressing a complex ethnic mix—Han Chinese, Tibetans, Hui and other Muslim groups, Dongxiang, Bao’an, Salar, as well as various Monguor-speaking groups. Under the current censorship regime within China, and for a region long troubled by ethnic tensions and poverty, one can hardly expect frank coverage of religion or sex—or indeed politics.
In 1993 Xi Huimin listed nearly one hundred festivals for Gansu and Qinghai (reproduced in Qiao Jianzhong, vol.1, pp.125–8); by 2013 Frank provided a map of 213 festivals in south Gansu alone (Music, dance, and the art of seduction, p.158). The largest and best-known festival is that of Lianhuashan. As he observes, the content of every festival is shaped by local needs and circumstances. Motives for attending include entertainment, contact with the gods, political affairs, and solving social problems, all closely intertwined.
Festivals are not merely places for pilgrimage, prayers, and chance encounters with strangers. They are major social events, combining markets, opera plays, disco dancing, kung fu movies, sooth-saying ceremonies, acrobatic shows, horse races, ritual processions of local gods, prayer sessions and a great deal more.
But the Chinese media
usually present these songs as a harmless form of musical entertainment, and often refer to the temple festivals in which they are sung as ‘hua’er festivals’, as if the songs are unrelated to the ritual settings, and void of religious connotations.
Still,
Some scholars who ignore or deny connections between hua’er and temple worship may do so not out of real conviction, but mainly in order to protect hua’er culture: religion is a politically sensitive topic in China, and in the past several local ritual traditions are known to have been forbidden by the authorities after details about them had been published in academic studies.
Frank also notes the Buddhist and folk-religious songs performed inside the temples, as at the Upper Bingling temple festival (pp.127–34).
As ever, it would be good to glean material on the maintenance of such local events through the Maoist decades (cf. Sparks). Even
during the Cultural Revolution, people went on singing at the risk of being arrested or attacked by Red Guards. Complete battles took place between hua’er singers and Red Army soldiers at Lianhuashan after the government had forbidden the festival there.
Frank’s chapter goes on to discuss courtship and sex, sacred singers in mythology, and fertility cults; power, authority and competition at temple festivals; and ethnicity.
Hornblowers at the head of the annual procession of the eighteen gods in Xincheng, 1997.
His recent fieldwork focuses on the festivals at Erlangshan (Minxian) and Xincheng. As in his earlier chapter, he notes how processions of the gods often result in violence. In Xincheng,
We recorded violence between three such groups at one spot near the south gate, resulting in bloodshed, chaos, people squeezing one another, and furious quarrels flaring up between individual men. A big police force had been kept on standby. It soon arrived on the scene, some twenty, thirty men including national guards, but they were unable to calm down the mob.
A bunch of daredevils had used their sedan chair as a weapon, pushing and chasing another sedan chair down the road. It was as if the gods themselves were taking up a fight. The dense crowd began to move, shouting, gesturing, and the assembled policemen were involuntarily pushed along.
Among recent changes on Erlangshan, Frank notes that some singers themselves now favour amplification:
It made their singing much louder, but obviously undermined the option for most people to join in spontaneously with a phrase or a couplet, precisely the thing that had made the whole tradition so endearing: the free-flowing exchange of lyrics, an ever ongoing battle of wits… Now, the person in a crowd holding the microphone would decide whom to give it to for a reply, with all others essentially being excluded from the sung conversation.
Frank also documented devotional songs in nearby villages. While musicological analysis is always desirable, I’m keen to see more research on the ritual aspects of these cultures in changing society.
In Minxian he also attended a grand stage show, illustrating the secularisation and commodification of local culture—leading nicely to his next topic, which I introduce here.
[1] Frank’s 2013 chapter includes a useful bibliography of works on hua’er in Chinese and English. Among publications are several surveys by Qiao Jianzhong (in vol.1 of his works), as well as studies by Du Yaxiong and regional scholars such as the folklorist Ke Yang. One should also consult the Anthology folk-song volumes for Gansu and Qinghai. Rather than the conventional rendering hua’er, I favour the form huar. Links to further posts on Gansu here.
[2] Among such “stars” of huar was Zhu Zhonglu 朱仲禄 (1922–2007), subject of several CDs (and tracks on the archive set Tudi yu ge); this documentary, though straight-laced, is representative of the official image.
It’s taken me a while to catch up on the role of Zen in football—and when I did, it took the unlikely form of of witnessing it used as a rebuke.
Last weekend, wunderkind Myles Lewis-Skelly * celebrated scoring Arsenal’s brilliant third goal against Man City by adopting a pose which mimicked that associated with Erling Haaland, underlining City’s discomfort. It turns out that meditation has become a niche avenue to footballing success, adopted by players such as Mo Salah, Raheem Sterling, and Anthony Gordon (see e.g. here). Still, I’m not holding my breath for a time when this converts footballers to regarding referees as Daoist sages, meekly accepting their decisions—as in rugby.
I’m not exactly hibernating, but while I have various projects on the go, new posts are few and far between at the mo—so meanwhile do keep working through my previous ouevre:
The recent film on the 1995 New Year’s rituals in Gaoluo leads to a whole series on the village, rounded up in the Gaoluo Menu at the top, starting here.
And for context, the Hebei Menu contains many more fieldnotes, starting here.
Apart from my own films, my You Tube channel includes playlists leading you to particular themes on this blog outlined on the homepage—a selection including
The qin zither is exceptionally well represented online, but I rather like my succinct playlist
And much more—do spread the word!
Meanwhile, to follow this update on Nicolas Magriel’s voluminous sarangi site, he continues to add precious material… (see also under A garland of ragas).
I’m trying to abandon the iniquity of Twitter by moving to BlueSky, so do follow me there.
“Normal service will be resumed as soon as possible”
Among the myriad delights of Istanbul are the iskele piers serving vapur ferries. The smaller iskeles along the Bosphorus are especially charming, like Beylerbeyi:
Most vapur have cafés on board, but some iskeles also have cafés and even libraries—like those at Karaköy and Beşiktaş, a welcome refuge from the surrounding bustle:
The Kadikoy iskele is charming, but most picturesque is at Moda:
Even the Kuzguncuk iskele (from where the Greek bishop throws a cross into the Bosphorus to be retrieved at Epiphany!), despite its sparse ferry schedule, has a popular cafe and library:
Here’s the Paşabahçe iskele in 1910:
Many of these piers date back to the mid-19th century, and have been regularly modified, but the addition of cafés and libraries is part of recent initiatives—the Moda iskele, for instance, had so few passengers that it was closed from 1986, reopening in 2001 and revamped since 2022.
For some handy expressions at the dentist, to follow my post on Gallipoli and Ljubljana, idly consulting the relevant section of my Turkish phrasebook, my imagination is captured by the expression
Bitmedi, tekrar gelmelisiniz
Come back, I haven’t finished!
This reminds me of Nigel Barley’s comment on his first fieldtrip to Cameroon (The innocent anthropologist, p.109–10), as he emerges bloodied after having his two front teeth pulled out with pliers:
I had fallen into the obvious trap that anyone in a dental surgery, wearing a white coat and prepared to extract teeth, was a dentist.
With general relevance to the conceptual confusion caused by “world music” marketing strategies, I highly recommend a review by Michael Frishkopf of The Rough Guide to Sufi music (Asian music 43.1, 2012, online here). It’s important background for several of my fumblings on the cultures of West/Central Asia, such as Bektashi/Alevi ritual (here, here) and the Naqshbandi order, and is instructive for traditions further afield—including China, where concepts like “religious music” and “Daoist music” may also confuse.
While praising the CD’s “wonderful collection of stellar performers and powerful performances”, Frishkopf trenchantly criticises its scant twelve pages of liner notes, “replete with misleading stereotypes, Orientalist-inflected, market-driven verbiage (alongside some outright errors)”.
First he addresses “world music”, itself a problematic category—an industry marketing label for musical performances from “elsewhere”, often combining elements (sonic, textual, or contextual) unfamiliar to Western listeners with others conveying reassuring familiarity (notably percussive grooves, or the timbres of Western popular music).
With the noble exception of labels aimed at the non-pecuniary goals of preservation, scholarship, or education, “the typical marketing strategy for this world music includes techniques for selection and description designed to maximise sales, not representational accuracy”.
In search of sales, most world music representations are biased—in both sound and description—to conform to the expectations for the world music idea, underscoring unfamiliarity by stressing features such as exoticism, ecstasy, trance, and spirituality, oſten emphasizing physical aspects (movement, dance, possession), and de-emphasising text in favour of the (supposedly) more transcultural power of musical sound.
On such compilations, the process of abridging original liner notes compounds rather than corrects representational errors. And “connections between different tracks typically cannot be intelligently described because such connections are not present anywhere in the source material; their interpretation requires knowledge of the broader musical scene that has already been omitted in the original re-presentation.” Moreover,
radically different kinds of world music—in this case Sufi music from field recordings, studio recordings, live performances from the world music circuit, fusions with scant existence outside of world music circles—are oſten juxtaposed without comment, simply because they were marketed under the same labels by the chosen source CDs. Some artists are widely known in their home country, others enjoy only local fame, while still others have built careers in world music and aren’t known back home (the essential elsewhere with which they are associated) at all. In the case of music identified as spiritual, some performers are recognised as religious authorities, while others are masters of music alone. Some performances are intended as spiritual utterances, while others have been denatured as a staged art.
Next Frishkopf turns to “Sufi music”, problematising both words (cf. Rectifying names):
First, one must consider the different perspectives on music (both as word and as phenomenon) and related concepts (e.g., sama’, spiritual audition; ghina’, singing) in Islam, and in Western discourse about Islam. In my opinion, the crux of this problem is not that the word music must never be used to describe the sounds of Islam—certainly the semantic scope of this English word is broad enough to encompass that which many cognates (e.g., Arabic musiqa) do not—but simply that this status, and discourse, must at least be discussed, and the etic use of the word music acknowledged. The present CD does not problematise the term at all.
Second, and perhaps more critically, is the slippery concept of Sufi, a word whose ethnocentricism is masked by its status as a legitimate Arabic word describing certain particularly pious Muslims of mystical inclination. Sufism, on the other hand, is an English neologism; the corresponding Arabic term is tasawwuf. In fact, as scholars such as Carl Ernst and William Chittick have recently observed, the current English sense of Sufism (like the terms Salafism and even Islam) has been shaped and promulgated by Orientalists, as a blanket term to designate diverse phenomena—from theosophy to voluntary religious associations (turuq), from ritual ecstasy to simple veneration (madih) of the Prophet Muhammad—throughout Muslim lands, in contrast to an imagined orthodoxy. Yet no single term covers such a vast range of phenomena in the languages of the Muslim majority regions, and indeed until the modern rise of Islamism, Muslim societies did not distinguish two spheres now known as Sufism and Islam; what is now called Sufism permeated rather than counterposed Islamic belief and practice. Sufi thus appears as a crypto-etic term. My point here is not that the term Sufi music should never be used, but rather that such a term (and its constituent parts) should be problematised, however briefly, considering its etic status and Orientalist genealogy, and (consequently) the ways it tends to mask difference.
He lists some examples on the CD. Whereas in most Muslim practice (Sufi or otherwise) language is foregrounded, in such packages instrumental music is stressed more than poetry.
In the cover statement “Islamic mystics harness the power of music”—sometimes true, though certainly not always—the sensory is transformed into the sensational, a technique for selling CDs. On page 3 of the notes booklet appears the phrase “hypnotic and trance-inducing”—an exemplary instance of world music marketing.
Following scholars of religion, Frischkopf queries the notes’ use of terms like “sects” and “orthodoxy”. And commenting on “the religious orthodox have tried to keep music out … but the Sufis have harnessed the power of music … and turned it to the service of God”,
this statement misleads in several directions at once. First, if music is taken in its broadest sense, even most Sufi writers tended to object to music in general and would approve of particular forms of chanting and—occasionally—instrumental performance only in carefully prescribed and regulated contexts. Second, if music is taken to include religious chanting, even the orthodox have always accepted certain kinds of music such as the cantillation of the Qur’an (tilawa), the call to prayer (adhan), and the recitation of religious poetry (inshad), provided that its themes remain within the bounds of religion, that the musical practices focus on text rather than emotion, and that men and women do not mingle.
Moving on to the second paragraph of the notes (!),
one finds further representations of Sufism through rituals and festivals that are described as exotic, dramatic, extreme, and ecstatic; a bodily spirituality reaching heights of bliss while radiating agony and death, evoking both Eros and Thanatos; ironic transfigurations of similar discourses today deployed—harshly—by so-called Muslim fundamentalists, the Salafiyya, for whom such features constitute adequate proof that Sufi ritual is a wholly illegitimate bid‘a (heresy; literally, innovation), having nothing to do with true Islam. Orientalist fantasies and fundamentalist critiques, both drawing on Sufi stereotypes, are thus unwittingly paired.
Frishkopf sums up:
All the artists and recordings presented here are aesthetically outstanding, though the relation of performers and performances to Sufism is quite variable. Most tracks appear to be concert or studio performances (oſten in international world music contexts) rather than field recordings, a limitation which could easily be excused if it were at least acknowledged. The selection is limited in range (so many regions and traditions have been omitted, while others are overrepresented), and biased toward instrumental music (though sung poetry nearly always prevails in Sufi contexts). Finally, the notes, which appear to rely entirely on texts drawn from source CDs (thus repeating and compounding their errors), suffer from serious inadequacies. Worse than unscholarly or error-prone, they are badly afflicted by overgeneralizations, unproblematized categories, essentialisations, and world music stereotyping, echoing Orientalist discourses, presenting misinformation, and failing to suggest important connections. Finally, understanding is severely curtailed by the absence of poetic translations. It is a rough guide to Sufi music, indeed.
His conclusion is almost comically tactful:
As a result, this album can only be recommended for teaching music, ethnomusicology, or Islamic cultures under two conditions: (1) if it is supplemented by additional readings and critical classroom discussions; or (2) if it is presented as an instance of the world music phenomenon, to be interrogated as such. For the listener, however, these tracks present a rich aesthetic experience, one that can easily be extended by recourse to the generally available source CDs, and beyond. For this service, and for highlighting the work of these remarkable musicians, the editors and publishers of The Rough Guide to Sufi music deserve commendation.
Frishkopf doesn’t interrogate a second edition (on 2 CDs) curated by William Dalrymple (cf. his film Sufi soul—see under From the holy mountain).
Frank Kouwenhoven always writes engagingly about Chinese music. In the recent CHIME Newsletter (38; subscribe here) he contributes several useful notices , which I’ll discuss separately (for now, see Temple festivals in Gansu).
He introduces new initiatives in Jiangnan sizhu, the silk-and bamboo ensemble music of teahouses in Shanghai and environs. I outlined the style here; since Witzleben’s classic 1985 ethnography, note also the Anthology fieldwork, and Qi Kun’s fine study. For Chinese updates, there is always much to learn on WeChat.
For at least a century, has been an aesthetic gulf between teahouse and conservatoire styles (see e.g. here, and here). As Frank explains,
the “academic” style of silk and bamboo playing at the conservatoire differs considerably from that of folk artists who play their music mostly in teahouses and at private homes: the conservatoire style is much more polished, less rough in its heterophony, and more rigid in its dependence on written scores. The near-absence of folk-style improvisations and the use of well-tempered (Western) tuning also make the conservatoire way of playing more arty, more “classical” in atmosphere.
There is also a gulf within the conservatoires, between “ethnomusicologists” and performers—the former (including foreign students) seeking to document folk traditions, the latter part of a more recent style modelled on the polished values of Western Art Music for the concert platform.
In 2023, at the behest of the brilliant music-anthropologist Xiao Mei, a project was initiated at the Shanghai Conservatoire introducing a more traditional style of Jiangnan sizhu to the curriculum. (I’m naively perturbed that such a modest undertaking should require funding “as an ICH-marked genre” from the Pudong Securities Asset Management Fund, the Shanghai Trust and the Aide Foundation.)
The students receive regular instruction from elderly musicians, participating in informal gatherings.
The only aspect in which the students are not yet on a par with their folk counterparts is that they never switch instruments. Many folk artists happen to be multi-instrumentalists, equally at home on lutes, fiddles, flutes, and perhaps even dulcimer or mouth-organ. They pick up a different instrument from time to time, to change perspective. But this would be too demanding for the conservatoire students, who already have a tough task, playing in traditional tuning, and on silk strings, and attempting to improvise. Very few professional musicians in China would readily accept such a challenge. […]
Notwithstanding the modest nature of the project, with just four students joining in, it may well mark the beginning of an important new trend in academia: to establish a closer rapport with tradition, to adhere more faithfully to historical aesthetics, and ultimately, to play more freely, and with more fun.
Meanwhile, Frank also reviews a recent studio album, with senior musicians of the Shanghai Changqiao Jiangnan Sizhu Ensemble joined by the young dizi-player Fan Linfeng. Trained in Shanghai (and a devotee of HIP early-music performance practice), Fan has formed her own Jiangnan sizhu group at the Central Conservatoire in Beijing, also inspired by the traditional style. For this repertoire it is easier to find recordings of conservatoire ensembles than of folk groups, but this one sounds rather different. Still, Frank’s review begins with suitable nostalgia:
How wonderful it was, the relaxed atmosphere of Shanghai teahouses in the early 1980s. Men, dressed in green or blue Mao suits, would chat away, smoke pipes, drink tea, and pay no more than casual attention to the group of musicians seated around a table in the corner, playing that easy-going, radiant ensemble music known as “silk and bamboo”: pleasing, mellifluous, joyful, an unmistakeable blend of nasal bamboo flute flourishes, plucked string sounds, hammered dulcimer, sonorous mouth-organ chords and small percussion. In those days musicians didn’t care whether you, as a visitor to the teahouse, listened or not, and the constant buzz of teahouse conversations formed a natural backdrop to the pieces, almost as if it were a part of the music.
This ambience can no longer be found in Shanghai, not quite in this way at least. Silk-and-bamboo still exists, but it has become serious business. Teahouses now tend to line up their chairs like in a concert hall, telling visitors to keep their mouths shut, pay proper attention to the music, and applaud at the end.
This may be largely true; anyway, I’d like to see a restudy of active clubs over this period of constant social change. Have informal gathering places over tea with a live musical background really been superceded? Are the pleasures of playing seated around a long table no longer valued?!
In another post I’ll introduce Frank’s comments on recent fieldwork in Gansu and Zhejiang.
An intriguing letter from Rob Wills in the LRB (26th December 2024):
Bill Lancaster mentions his friend John Walton’s search for the first fish and chip shop in England and that he discovered a likely candidate in the East End (Letters, 24 October). This location is supported by The Epicure’s Almanack, Ralph Rylance’s comprehensive guide to eating and drinking in London, published in 1815. Reporting on Shoreditch, Rylance noted: ‘Here are Israelitish butchers, fishmongers and cooks. The latter exhibit in their windows fish fried, or rather, perhaps, boiled in oil until they look brown and savoury.’ The book’s modern editor, Janet Ing Freeman, adds that the food ‘may have been some version of the battered fish fried in olive oil popular among Sephardic Jews, often named as an ancestor of today’s fish and chips’. As for the chips, the earliest mention in English is in William Kitchiner’s cookbook The Cook’s Oracle (1817), though Belgium and France remain locked in furious dispute as to who actually invented them.
The two components seem to have become a winning combo by the 1860s. By 1910 there were 25,000 fish-and-chip shops in the UK. For more, see e.g. here, here, and here. Cf. the first curry house in London (1810, under Bloody foreigners), and the ancestry of pizza, under You say tomato.
Fish and chips wrapped in newspaper (probably not the LRB) is one of the classic tropes of Binmenism. I note with pleasure that transliterated into Turkish, chips would come out as cips, and fish as fiş (actually representing the French fiche!)—cf. şef, chef or conductor.
On Thursday at the Barbican I heard the LSO celebrate S-Simon Rattle’s 70th birthday.
The concert opened with Éclat by the great composer-conductor Pierre Boulez, marking the centenary of his birth. As Rattle observes here, Boulez was a seminal influence on our generation. While Éclat (1964–5) may not be everyone’s idea of a jaunty little overture, it’s exquisite, basking in the sonorities of fifteen instruments in two groups (piano, vibraphone, xylophone, harp, cimbalom, guitar, mandolin, tubular bells, timpani; and alto flute, cor anglais [“english horn”, as Boulez liked to call it], trumpet, trombone, viola, cello). As Jo Buckley comments in the programme notes,
It is as though we were examining an exquisite cut-glass bowl, glittering in its beauty and complexity, that is dropped and shattered into thousands of pieces. Some of these shards catch and sustain the light, others glint briefly as you pass them, but the whole itself is never restored.
For Rattle it’s “one of Boulez’s seminal pieces, […] where you not only conduct, but you almost compose as you go along. It’s a piece you can only do with a group of musicians who really trust you, and vice versa.” In this 2016 Prom he conducted the Berlin Phil:
When Boulez conducted Éclat in Leningrad in 1967, “the audience had never heard anything like it before and demanded an instant encore. ‘It was packed,’ says Lilian [Hochhauser], ‘they were hanging off the balconies’. ”
Then we heard the world premiere of George Benjamin’s Interludes and Aria, from his opera Lessons and Love and Violence (2018), a gift for Rattle’s birthday. In this coherent suite of seven brief movements, dramatic and unsettling, the central aria was sung by the imperious, magnificent BarbaraHannigan—how blessed are composers to have such an interpreter! Here she sings the aria in the opera itself:
For previous collaborations between Hannigan and Rattle, click here and here.
Having willingly eaten our greens, we earned a pudding. Brahms 4 may be familiar, but it’s always irresistible, right from the sigh of the descending third that opens the piece, on which Hugh Maguire dwelled lovingly as he coached us in the NYO.
S-Simon conducted the symphony from memory, always an immersive experience. And as with composer-conductors such as Mahler, Boulez, and Salonen, there’s something special about hearing classics performed by specialists in contemporary music. In his Lexicon of music invective Nicolas Slonimsky reminds us that it can take time for new music to be appreciated: critics of the day found Brahms 4 “intolerably dull”, with “a profuse lack of ideas”. So there.
For a less driven version of Brahms 4, try the iconic Furtwängler (1948). Cf. Carlos Kleiber (1996)—here, with an amazing Brahms 2 as well!!!
The human voice is the most remarkable instrument. Thinking of the diverse ways it’s used around the world (note the fine survey on the CD-set Les Voix du monde), an astounding vocalist is Bobby McFerrin (b.1950) (website; wiki; YouTube channel).
Party propaganda may appear to be ever more pervasive, but this is a deceptive image. While the gloriously ear-scouring Chinese punk scene has long captured media attention, I look forward to reading a recent book (now available in OpenEdition) by Nathanel Amar,
Scream for life: L’invention d’une contre-culture punk en Chine populaire (2022) (reviewed e.g. here),
a definitive survey, focusing on Beijing and Wuhan. Amar’s useful website links to many articles (listed here), complemented by his YouTube channel Chinese Alternative Music Project.
It’s good to dip my toes in life waay out of my comfort zone—which, mysteriously, happens to be fieldwork in dusty north Chinese villages documenting funeral rituals. Traditional folk culture too is an alternative scene, even as the Intangible Cultural Heritage system strives to render it toothlessly patriotic.
Brain Failure’s Anarchy in the PRC is an early classic:
All this may be remote from the kitsch Spring Festival Gala, and that’s just what makes it so valuable. The PRC punk scene offers a countercultural alternative, contesting the CCP monopoly on truth and memory (cf. Ian Johnson’s book Sparks on China’s underground historians). It’s part of young people’s cultural world—as I observed in my previous post, students returning from city colleges to attend the rural funerals of their grandparents may be listening to such gritty urban sounds on their phones.
Amar’s article “Drunk is beautiful” (Boire au bord de l’eau: usage de l’alcool dans la communauté punk chinoise) suggests a link to Inebriation and the qin zither, and Deviating from behavioural norms. Read his review of releases in 2024 here (extending to Taiwan and Hong Kong), including the album Kachakacha by Xiaowang/Sonic Baby (playlist). And do pursue his link to this page on the record collection of the iconic Liu Yuan (1960–2024).
See also Punk: a roundup—including the GDR, Croatia, Spain, and Iran. I look forward to post-post-punk.
At this time of year I like to rearrange the deckchairs on the Titanic by organising some of my more notable posts from the past year under particular themes. As ever, many belong under multiple tags, so below I make some whimsical choices.
Keeping company with my film on the Li family Daoists, most important is my *new film* on the 1995 New Year’s rituals in Gaoluo (Chinese review here). It also prompted me to devise a new Menu, and even a YouTube channel (with playlists reflecting my diverse tastes as well as my own films). For now I still resign myself to Twitter, but I’m posting on BlueSky too, so let’s all migrate there!
Homages to the genius of three friends who greatly inspired me:
You can find any posts I’ve neglected in the monthly Archive as you scroll waaay down in the sidebar. All this suggests that it would be a sensible New Year’s resolution for me to burden you with fewer of these ramblings—but first I plan a major series inspired by the Gaoluo film…
A substantial Chinese review of my new film on the 1995 New Year’s rituals in Gaoluo has appeared on the WeChat public account of the CDTM 中国音网, headed by the enterprising Wei Xiaoshi—
Following CDTM’s earlier review of my book on Gaoluo and its audio CD, access to the film within China should clarify my emphasis on the ritual function of such groups on the Hebei plain, over a decade before the Gaoluo ritual association came to fame as their image was remoulded by the Intangible Cultural Heritage.
Naturally, I hope the villagers themselves will be gratified to see vignettes of life in Gaoluo thirty years ago—many of them will hardly remember that era, and youngsters should be intrigued to see their grandfathers taking part in these rituals. As to scholars, it would also be good if the film finds an audience not only among musicologists but also in the fields of religion and folklore.
You can now watch the Chinese-subtitled version on my YouTube channel and here, and (in China) on CDTM (follow this link).
After a trip to LA, a renowned English cricketer hires a car. Speeding happily along a straight, endless, empty road through the Nevada desert, he is flagged down by two bored traffic cops parked idly at the roadside. One walks over to him and drawls,
with a seasonal tinge— and fieldwork as resistance to fascism
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Our image of Portuguese music is so dominated by fado (see here and here) that it’s easy to forget the abundance of folk traditions in rural communities there.
The archive (mostly filmed from 1971 to 1974) is on YouTube, as well as a playlist of excerpts. As in China, major themes are work songs (The Land! e.g. 50—not forgetting fishing), solo and a cappella singing, and church festivals; drums and fifes, bagpipes; stick-dances (e.g. 51, from São Martinho de Angueira) recall our much-maligned Morris dancing. Of particular note are the regions of Trás os Montes in the northeast, and the Alentejo. Here’s a compilation of religious music (45):
Mainly from the ritual repertoires, a few highlights:
In the Alentejo, the village of Venda holds the Festa da Santa Cruz (2–4) in Mayto celebrate spring (cf. Maggio in Tuscany, under Italy: folk musicking). This introduction refers to major studies by Morais and Fitas.
The group that goes down towards the crossroads is led by the Mordoma, dressed in white and carrying in her hands the Holy Cross, decorated with gold lent by the residents; the group that goes up to the meeting place is led by the Madanela, dressed in black and carrying in her hands a cloth with the face of Christ crowned with thorns. Both comprise a central female figure, two godmothers, four female singers with tambourines, and three male rifle-shooters. After the “meeting” of the Cross and the Cloth, they come together (beijo, “kiss”) to form a single group going up the village. Once at the Casinha da Cruz, Madanela and Mordoma present the Cross together. The next day, the Cross will leave the Casinha, remaining in the Mordoma’s house until the following year.
Nativity singers of Alpalhão (23–5); around Portalegre, Castelo Branco, Beja and Faro (30, 31), the cycle of Janeiras and Rios songs for the twelve days from Christmas to Epiphany, as well as the choral Oração das Almas in São Bento do Ameixial (9, 10).
The tamborileiros of Baixo Alentejo (17–22):
This documentary features a surreal viola (from 3.45):
Given the belated economic progress of the last half-century, I suppose this counts as salvage ethnomusicology—some of these traditions were already in decline, but others prove resilient amidst change (cf. Musics lost and found).
* * *
Some audio recordings of note include Musical traditions of Portugal(Smithsonian, 1988), and Tras-os-Montes: chants du Blé et cornemuses de berger (Ocora, 1978)—here’s a track:
* Someone must have pondered this, but I wonder how such fieldwork tangibly helps further the revolution. As in Yellow Earth, it might merely depress the visitor at the enormity of “backward” thinking—not least conservative religious values—among the people they hope to help. See also Taranta: poverty and orientalism.